Sugandaraja
03/15/2025 - 03:21 PM
2
10Scent 8Longevity 6Sillage 8Bottle 8Pricing

Pnoi: A Nostalgic Violet

The top notes are an exuberant rush: I mostly get neroli, violet leaf, aldehydes and a pinch of the birch tar, smelling bright, soapy, and green. It’s interesting, but ephemeral, and not really the “core” of the fragrance.

Pnoi then becomes an incredibly smooth violet, accented by iris, sandalwood, licorice, and leather. There are other notes quietly supporting this cast, I detect hints of hay, carnation, tobacco, rose, jasmine, perhaps heliotrope? It’s all well-blended to the point these notes flicked in and out like petals on the breeze. There is a luminous depth here that reminds me of classics of the past: notably the extrait of L’Apres L’Ondee, and like them, Pnoi is a masterful abstraction, everything blending in rather than standing out.

As the drydown continues, the focus shifts away from florals and towards powdery woods, especially the sandalwood, becoming resinous, milky, musky, and honeyed.

Pnoi is a scent of radiant beauty, with a fine-grained complexity that defies easy analysis. I enjoy quite a few from this line, but this is the most “polished” of the bunch, feeling both like a lost classic from the 20th century, and something entirely new.
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