I Am Darkness Azman 2022

First of all, there is nothing dark about this.
At least not in the way we know fragrant darkness all too well, sometimes to the point of exhaustion: tarry, smoky, bacon-like, dark-forested, dripping with resin.

Nothing of the sort.

Instead: incense, a lot of incense, of the bright, fine kind, not that sharp, creaky, Catholic nose-hair-raising type, but rather delicate, aromatic Omani incense, which also characterized the early creations of Amouage. Occupying the center of the fragrance, it is initially surrounded by green-coniferous notes and bitter citrus freshness, while backstage a lush exotic floral trio warms up: ylang-ylang, champaca, and especially frangipani, which increasingly emit a narcotic fruity-floral nectar, but fortunately are kept in check by the ever-present incense clouds. In this way, the incense proves to be an exceedingly compatible contrast to overwhelming sweetness and sense-clouding indolic notes, while beautifully merging with green-resinous conifer aromas and the fresh-bitter fruit complex of grapefruit.
On a slender, balsamically warm base that does not drift into predictable amber sweetness but anchors itself in the stable ink-moisture of a classic oakmoss chypre structure, this incense potpourri comes to rest quite leisurely after various pirouettes. It is astonishing how well the smoky facets harmonize with the earthy-mossy notes of lichen! In fact, a bit of oud makes an appearance here, in a homeopathic dose, just enough to create a nuance that captures the power of its own scent profile, picking up the incense mood and transitioning to an earthy finish - a kind of 'missing link'.

However, do not expect a power chypre like 'Mitsouko'. 'I Am Darkness' is clearly recognizable as a chypre, even if some Mitsouko fans will certainly dispute this, but the chypre character does not define the fragrance as such; it does not prominently come to the forefront but rather exudes its bitter and warm sound more in the background, or better: underground.
Nevertheless, the incense is somewhat what the peach is for 'Mitsouko': a congenial match partner for an unusual chypre variation. Not that such a thing has never existed; 'Lacrima' by Liquides Imaginaires is also an incense chypre, but 'I Am Darkness' is undeniably orchestrated with much more complexity and contrast, without appearing overloaded or too opulent. The fragrance remains rather delicate, sinewy, and without any imbalances - everything seems meticulously coordinated.
Here was someone at work who understands their craft in a tangible way: Nutt Wesshasartar, a young perfumer who carries on a Thai fragrance tradition in the fourth generation, which began in 1928 with a work called "Num-Ob Prung Chaokhun." In contrast to his compatriot and self-taught perfumer Prin Lomros, at least this creation by Wesshasartar (I do not know another, the man was completely unknown to me before) appears more balanced, classic, refined, and sublime than anything I have smelled from colleague Lomros so far. Together with Mrs. Wesshasartar, third generation (mother? aunt?), Nutt Wesshasartar launched a new line called 'Siam 1928' in 2019, which aims to bring the family tradition into the modern age. The fragrances all sound exciting, with all sorts of ingredients completely unknown to me, and even the water with which the alcohol is diluted, in which the perfume oils are dissolved, is apparently sometimes smoked, which I have never heard of before.
Well, perhaps these works will one day find their way to us - I believe there is something to discover here!

After reading that the founding fragrance of the Wesshasartar perfumer dynasty is still sold today in "Buddhist shops for use in traditional rituals since 1928," it suddenly seemed conceivable to me that this refers to a kind of 'darkness' that is not so 'dark' for our European noses (and even more so for our German lumberjack noses). But it is indeed. At least in a Thai or Buddhist context, where the fragrance alludes to a kind of introspective darkness that arises when one closes their eyes and begins to meditate. The space surrounding the meditator could be an open temple, surrounded by countless incense sticks that let their bright columns of smoke curl up, adorned with fruit-bearing trees and flowers. No matter how colorful and bright the incoming aromas may flash before the black canvas of closed eyelids, with increasing self-absorption, the meditative darkness will ultimately absorb the remnants of imagined brightness.
Whether I am right with this interpretation or not, the misleading naming seems a bit more plausible to me in any case.

There are certainly some convincing incense fragrances: 'Avignon' and 'Kyoto', 'Passage d’Enfer', 'Casbah' or 'Lacrima', each accentuating in its own way. 'I Am Darkness' now comes with a whole bundle of special accents: green, fruity, floral, resinous, aromatic, spicy, mossy, and so on - a fragrant kaleidoscope, whose numerous components puzzle together anew with every turn. I have not yet experienced a more colorful and multilayered fragrance of this genre, and moreover in chypre attire (without real oakmoss, however, probably with an unspecified substitute, e.g., Evernyl), which has completely captivated me.
'I Am Darkness' has a perfume oil content of 20%, can therefore rightly call itself 'parfum' and behaves accordingly - developing a beautiful, long-lasting, not overly loud volume.

Due to its striking floral facets, some may categorize it as a rather feminine fragrance, while others may see it as more masculine due to its (incense) smoky base mood. So let everyone decide for themselves - the complexity of the fragrance removes it from any simplifying categorization.

One can only hope that the Azman fragrances will be easier to obtain here in the future, as it would be a shame if works of this quality were withheld from a clientele that appreciates characterful perfume art. Husen Baba has certainly already shown a good hand not only with the selection of his perfumers, at least regarding the first four fragrances of the still young company (Canali, Matos, Lomros, Wesshasartar), but apparently also given them 'carte blanche' regarding the quality of materials and sufficient artistic freedom.
You can smell it!