Candemir Berlin de Vous

Berlin de Vous is perhaps something like the arte channel of perfumery. A German-French collaboration, kept rather manageable and "with ambition," aimed at the "conscious," reflective clientele that appreciates sustainability, lovingly crafted items, things not known to everyone, and perhaps also things not understood by everyone.

The nose behind the only three fragrances released so far from this small manufactory, which focuses on high-quality and predominantly natural raw materials, is Marie Urban LeFebvre, who is known to us as the creative mind behind her own brand Urban Scents.

Candemir came to me by chance; it was recommended to me by the interested and holistically oriented owner of a small cosmetics and fragrance shop in Berlin-Mitte. When I tested Candemir, I strangely thought directly of the works of Marie Urban that I know, so casual, so wearable, but also intriguingly exceptional, as it seemed to me (I admit, I was a little bit proud when I heard that she is indeed the perfumer behind Candemir).

Right off the bat: if you want to make a statement with your fragrance, this is not the right choice. Candemir is one that hugs closely and does not leave a trail. You really have to want that, especially in this price segment. I can definitely understand if someone does not want that. Fortunately, I personally usually do want that, or rather: it fits into my olfactory preference.

It starts off briefly crystalline-citrusy-orange and reminds me of those packets of grape sugar for sucking. So already sweetish, but also a bit scratchy, citrus-minty-sharp-spicy. It follows a seamless, smooth glide into increasing sweetness and warmth, without force or intrusiveness, very fine, as if you were putting on a thin cashmere jacket over a delicate silk shirt. To later slip into a soft, light, but cozy cashmere coat. Perhaps I catch a whiff of diffuse wood along the way, but actually, I can't clearly identify anything. The ingredients have completely blended into a harmonious unity.

Candemir indeed feels natural to me. Warm, sweetish, and slightly powdery, perhaps even fur-like, after initially seeming a bit cool and distant. Nevertheless, it is not a wintry snuggler. Its aura has something cheerful, light, milky, almost summery about it. And *I* wear the fragrance, not it wears me.

There are certainly fragrances - even from my own collection - that get my blood rushing more. But right now, the world is already loud enough for me, so this calm, cleverly simple, unpretentious, yet not boring fragrance means a comforting, stylish coat for me in almost all situations of life.