Some time ago, a friend asked me for help in finding a suitable fragrance for him. It should be alcoholic, that was pretty much the only guideline he gave me. We set out on the search together, and since I know him quite well, the Black Phantom - Memento Mori caught my eye relatively quickly: Spiced rum with coffee, it should fit perfectly. Since the price for (by) Kilian is already quite steep for a blind buy, the next logical stop was the Spectre Wraith from French Avenue/Fragrance World. He ordered it, was very enthusiastic, and at the next opportunity, he let me sniff it as well. And since I found it for €30 a few days ago, it is now also part of my collection.
A look at the fragrance pyramid tells you everything you need to know about the scent profile: Spiced rum with coffee and sugar on a sandalwood base. Patchouli doesn't play a particularly significant role in my nose, nor does vetiver. Both are more like supports for the sandalwood, balancing the fragrance without standing out themselves. Since neither of these notes is among my favorites, I can fully accept this circumstance. Something I also absolutely cannot relate to is coffee. I don't like it in any form, whether with or without milk, sugar, foam, and whatever else exists. Accordingly, I have to keep my nose away from my skin in the first half hour after spraying, as the coffee is really very intensely noticeable during that time. Close to the skin, mind you! In the air, after a few minutes, you can already sense what will appear directly on the skin after about an hour: The coffee transforms into an extremely dark, intoxicating chocolate. The rum and spices don't mind this at all; they harmonize excellently with both, although in the air it initially seems as if you poured some coffee into your rum, not the other way around. However, once the chocolaty aspect takes over, the rum calms down somewhat and from then on harmonizes perfectly with it, supported by the sugar, so that the whole thing doesn't drift into a musty, cellar-like scent. Despite the sweet-spicy gourmand orientation, it is by no means a crowd-pleaser! Its DNA is too special, too dark, and the likelihood of causing a stir or at least not generating enthusiastic reactions is significantly higher than with other representatives of this genre.
The performance of the Wraith is already very strong at the beginning, but it settles into a good range after about an hour (at least on my skin). Good, because it makes the fragrance more versatile: If it maintained the initial intensity for several hours, it would only be suitable for events where you want to overpower other scents. However, after an initial big hello, a noticeable but pleasant sillage follows that doesn't intrude too much on anyone unless that person seeks immediate proximity to the wearer.
Now let's talk about the presentation, and here Fragrance World really pulls out all the stops. The name choice seems a bit strange, as both "Spectre" and "Wraith" are terms for a ghost. Are Wraiths different/more malevolent than Spectres or Ghosts (which is the name for another representative of the series)? And what will the next candidate in the series be called (Spectre Banshee would be interesting)? Ignoring all semantic subtleties: The basic design is already known from the predecessors of the series, but the Wraith has received the blackout treatment, fitting to its name and scent. Packaging (side sliding box with a slightly too tight fit), bottle, cap: Everything is in deep black, with the vertical WRAITH lettering being the only thing providing a color contrast. The shape fits the scent DNA much better than it does with the Ghost: angular and edgy, the bullet embedded in the side (which confusingly is depicted including the casing. A small note to the designer: That's not how firearms work), the shockwave caused by the "impact" from the bottle combines with the "deformed" glass or front cover. All of this may seem too kitschy and/or exaggerated to some. Too deliberately masculine. I confess: I am the target audience; the design completely resonates with me. For everyone who feels differently, there is at least a well-fitting cap and a sprayer that is unmatched in this price segment, as it is under pressure and allows for very precise dosing. Again: For €30.
Spectre Wraith delivers a DNA that is clearly different from much of what you usually smell (especially in the mainstream area), along with a performance that makes it present but not too aggressive. Anyone looking for a signature scent that stands out from the crowd should at least give this fragrance a sniff, especially since its longevity on clothing makes it predestined for daily wear: You can't wash it off as quickly as it takes over shirts. As my first French Avenue/Fragrance World perfume, it has left an extremely good impression.
