27
Very helpful Review
Astonished Saleswomen Everywhere
Profumo, first of all, congratulations on writing such a detailed comment about this MASTERPIECE of a perfume. My experiences with this scent were very similar to yours. However, I had no opportunity to try the fragrance. I had read about it in a trade magazine (which I believe no longer exists). Hmm, I thought. Smoky, leathery, slightly woody (that’s how the scent was described); I must have it as a fan of Lapsang Souchong. So, off to my regular perfumery in Cologne (Goldkopf) and I ordered it "blind." When the fragrance arrived a few days later, specially ordered from France, I was informed. When I went to pick up the item, the saleswoman had a strange reaction: Mr. Ö., we ordered the perfume just for you from France. You will understand that we cannot accept returns in this case. She had a smirking face and glanced at the tester that was included. Then she continued: we really can’t sell such a scent.
I agreed and was about to pay when she asked if I wanted to try the tester. She probably wanted to see the horror in my eyes with a hint of schadenfreude. I thought to myself: that’s enough. I didn’t grant her the schadenfreude and shot back: "No need. I know what the scent is like. It should remind one of a campfire with smoldering charcoal, where you feel the coolness of the night and the warmth of the coals at the same time. And you sip a good Chinese Souchong." She was astonished at how differently people perceive scents.
Now, onto the fragrance. Once home, my wife was just so thrilled with the scent that she had an urgent desire to run out onto the balcony for some fresh air. No wonder; she had sprayed the scent for testing just like she does with her fresh fruity or aquatic everyday scents like Laura or Cool Water Woman, so very generously. My first experiences were quite different. I applied the scent discreetly on my forearm; on the hairy side, not on the wrist. I don’t need pulsating spots if I keep sticking my nose there to follow the scent development. I was astonished at how consistent and gradual the development was. The scent reveals its true nature right from the start: unusual, extreme, with a woody-smoky focus and leathery accents. One must say about the scent progression that a top note is almost completely missing, only minimally present. But that is neither necessary nor sensible; after all, what should one use to set the mood for a campfire with charcoal: citrus fruits (yuck), or even fresh fruits (ugh). No, but herbs like lavender, sage, or clary sage would work. But only a little of that. Especially lavender and clary sage have a wonderful property in perfume compositions:
they can give scents body and a shell even in small doses, without standing out themselves. In this fragrance, they probably added a nuance of bergamot to guarantee a tiny, airy freshness at the start. And then about Ho leaves (or Linaloe, rosewood), to ensure a bridge later between the woody overall picture and the base of the tar-like leathery something (probably a base based on juniper and birch) with a hint of amber.
But this fragrance has much more to offer, as indicated above in the fragrance note composition by bitter orange, osmanthus, and clove.
Namely, this spicy delicate-floral facet without appearing fruity.
Certainly achieved through a second combination strand of bitter orange (including leaves, neroli, and absolute), which also creates a connection to the other strand via bergamot. Furthermore, in this strand osmanthus serves as a floral-delicate transition to the actually perceivable, almost drinkable black tea (yummy). Clove (spice as well as carnation absolute) at the end then creates the second bridge (alongside lavender, clary sage, etc.) to the amber note. This time, however, via the spicy-floral route.
Amber appears in the fragrance description above, just like bergamot, lavender, and co, but I am convinced that it is this linalool-linalyl acetate combo that, in a very subtle interplay with amber, gives the whole fragrance a kind of transparent dress. A transparent, yet inexplicably alluring, all-encompassing shell.
And thus, the fragrance receives a well-rounded overall picture from me and the highest possible score, even though I find Annick Goutal fragrances, like most Serge Lutens fragrances, simply not great. For me, they only represent partially lavishly built bases. Exceptions might be Sables (Goutal) and Louve or Douce Amere (Lutens).
My personal experiences with Eau Du Fier, as far as other people are concerned, were also consistently positive, apart from the first ones described above. Anecdote:
When I attended a Turkish celebration, I wore Eau Du Fier because I wanted to maintain the typical distance of discretion for myself.
Perhaps this perfume struck the Turkish scent nerve just like it did for me.
I could hardly resist the "attention."
Otherwise, I could say about this scent that it is better suited for cooler seasons and for use from late afternoon onwards.
Ideal for salespeople who shy away from customer contact, but not for career-minded employees (at least not in the workplace). Very nice for going out in the evening, provided the companion can tolerate this note, which unfortunately is not the case with my wife :-(.
But ultimately, this fragrance might be the best choice when sitting with dear friends around a campfire, the cool wind blowing around your ears, and you sip a nice cup of hot black tea. It doesn’t even have to be Lapsang Souchong. Eau Du Fier already provides the smoky tea feeling.
I agreed and was about to pay when she asked if I wanted to try the tester. She probably wanted to see the horror in my eyes with a hint of schadenfreude. I thought to myself: that’s enough. I didn’t grant her the schadenfreude and shot back: "No need. I know what the scent is like. It should remind one of a campfire with smoldering charcoal, where you feel the coolness of the night and the warmth of the coals at the same time. And you sip a good Chinese Souchong." She was astonished at how differently people perceive scents.
Now, onto the fragrance. Once home, my wife was just so thrilled with the scent that she had an urgent desire to run out onto the balcony for some fresh air. No wonder; she had sprayed the scent for testing just like she does with her fresh fruity or aquatic everyday scents like Laura or Cool Water Woman, so very generously. My first experiences were quite different. I applied the scent discreetly on my forearm; on the hairy side, not on the wrist. I don’t need pulsating spots if I keep sticking my nose there to follow the scent development. I was astonished at how consistent and gradual the development was. The scent reveals its true nature right from the start: unusual, extreme, with a woody-smoky focus and leathery accents. One must say about the scent progression that a top note is almost completely missing, only minimally present. But that is neither necessary nor sensible; after all, what should one use to set the mood for a campfire with charcoal: citrus fruits (yuck), or even fresh fruits (ugh). No, but herbs like lavender, sage, or clary sage would work. But only a little of that. Especially lavender and clary sage have a wonderful property in perfume compositions:
they can give scents body and a shell even in small doses, without standing out themselves. In this fragrance, they probably added a nuance of bergamot to guarantee a tiny, airy freshness at the start. And then about Ho leaves (or Linaloe, rosewood), to ensure a bridge later between the woody overall picture and the base of the tar-like leathery something (probably a base based on juniper and birch) with a hint of amber.
But this fragrance has much more to offer, as indicated above in the fragrance note composition by bitter orange, osmanthus, and clove.
Namely, this spicy delicate-floral facet without appearing fruity.
Certainly achieved through a second combination strand of bitter orange (including leaves, neroli, and absolute), which also creates a connection to the other strand via bergamot. Furthermore, in this strand osmanthus serves as a floral-delicate transition to the actually perceivable, almost drinkable black tea (yummy). Clove (spice as well as carnation absolute) at the end then creates the second bridge (alongside lavender, clary sage, etc.) to the amber note. This time, however, via the spicy-floral route.
Amber appears in the fragrance description above, just like bergamot, lavender, and co, but I am convinced that it is this linalool-linalyl acetate combo that, in a very subtle interplay with amber, gives the whole fragrance a kind of transparent dress. A transparent, yet inexplicably alluring, all-encompassing shell.
And thus, the fragrance receives a well-rounded overall picture from me and the highest possible score, even though I find Annick Goutal fragrances, like most Serge Lutens fragrances, simply not great. For me, they only represent partially lavishly built bases. Exceptions might be Sables (Goutal) and Louve or Douce Amere (Lutens).
My personal experiences with Eau Du Fier, as far as other people are concerned, were also consistently positive, apart from the first ones described above. Anecdote:
When I attended a Turkish celebration, I wore Eau Du Fier because I wanted to maintain the typical distance of discretion for myself.
Perhaps this perfume struck the Turkish scent nerve just like it did for me.
I could hardly resist the "attention."
Otherwise, I could say about this scent that it is better suited for cooler seasons and for use from late afternoon onwards.
Ideal for salespeople who shy away from customer contact, but not for career-minded employees (at least not in the workplace). Very nice for going out in the evening, provided the companion can tolerate this note, which unfortunately is not the case with my wife :-(.
But ultimately, this fragrance might be the best choice when sitting with dear friends around a campfire, the cool wind blowing around your ears, and you sip a nice cup of hot black tea. It doesn’t even have to be Lapsang Souchong. Eau Du Fier already provides the smoky tea feeling.
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