Ella and Lil Eau de Parfum contains several ingredients that I don't particularly favor (ambrette seeds, coffee, cocoa, cardamom, and leather), but what a surprise: The fragrance quickly captivated and fascinated me with its aura. Often, the whole is indeed more than the sum of its parts.
How is that? An attempt at deconstruction:
Starting from the result, one first notices powdery dry accents, a less warm than elevated sound of sweet-spicy nuances: Coffee and cocoa are plausible but not decipherable individually, cardamom is clearly recognizable, as is the clove that is perceptible until the end. I understand the leather note here in the traditional sense (it smells rather minimally ambered or subtly resinous, definitely not like the penetrating postmodern suede notes that would be as far from a brand like Kamila Aubre as the moon).
Originally, I was interested in the fragrance because of the idiosyncratic porcini note, which appears multiple times in Kamila Aubre's creations, such as in Soliloquy Eau de Parfum or Gloire de Dijon Eau de Parfum, and which gives Kamila's fragrances a delicately earthy and animalistic, yet distinctly exquisite note. I have emphasized several times that mushroom notes in fragrances do not smell like a mushroom pan, but are rather comparable to the earthy and bodily notes of patchouli, even if they don't actually smell similar. They do not dominate fragrances but always remain in the background, leaving a fine aroma reminiscent of forest soil: more unconsciously dreamed than consciously noticed.
Reading: Ludwig Tieck: "Der blonde Eckbert" or "Der Runenberg" Music: The Cure: "A Forest" or Antonin Dvořák: "From the Bohemian Forest" Indulgence: Chocolate with dried porcini mushrooms
I kindly ask to refrain from comments that mushrooms belong only in the pan and not in fragrances, as long as this scent has not been tested.
Now I'm coming back around - and you are so right with your mushroom descriptions, @Yatagan. This scent is so extraordinarily beautiful and different along with its mushroom :-) . What I find remarkable is that I feel like I'm getting a new scent impression every five minutes. Sometimes it's really worth it to step out of your comfort zone ;-))
Seems like it's advanced to your house brand (?!). Very, very intriguing (described), without excessive flattery; I really appreciate that. Thank you so much for this. The brand is on my radar!
That sounds very interesting and refined! (Brave mushroom lovers sometimes replace truffle oil in pasta recipes with exquisite oud oils... Mushroom is mushroom ;-).
I also like the brand, which has enriched my collection a bit thanks to your recommendation.
I’ve already had the chance to experience their way of modulating the mushroom note in other fragrances, and I really like it.
Very nice recommendations!
You can't tempt me with a mushroom dish. I actually prefer the smell of mushrooms to eating them. And yes, I also find the scent of Patch somewhat similar.
"The blonde Eckbert"... I'm no Germanist... never read it. In today's world, the title doesn't entice me either. What's the connection to the scent? "Runenberg" doesn't sound like a book I regret not having read. Please explain, my friend.
Both are central texts of German Romanticism, where the term "Waldeinsamkeit," which became the epitome of the German longing for the forest, first appears. The Runenberg addresses the romance of the forest in a very dark way (even though mushrooms aren't explicitly mentioned 😁).
Our teacher once gave an example to strengthen the class's unity: all five fingers of a hand may be strong, but they are fragile. Only when they come together as a fist are they truly strong. As a whole or each one of them individually.
With this perfume, it seems to work 👋🙂🤜.
If earthy mushrooms on the skin weren't my thing, my preferred oud universe wouldn't be quite right.
Kamila Aubre enchants you. 😊 And YES: appreciating something is more than the sum of its parts.
A lovely label. I'm considering getting a sample set.
That's true, we completely agree, and I would be happy if you took a closer interest in the brand because I’m really curious to hear your opinion. I suspect you would like quite a few of the fragrances!
Isn't it amazing how often less popular fragrance notes can smell fantastic in just the right combination? Those surprises are what it's all about! 👍
The scent might not resonate with me as much, but that doesn't matter. The world of fragrances is colorful and vast. 🌈
And by the way: mushrooms... Nope, I'm not saying anything 😜😜
Your fine description of the mushroom aroma makes me even more curious about it. I really enjoy that physical, underlying animalic quality in fragrances. I used to find civet and castoreum fascinating, and today I love vegan notes like amber aroma. I'll remember this brand. Thanks for the introduction!
I'll definitely respect your ban! Still, a musty mushroom scent doesn’t belong in my perfume! One exception: Black Orchid! Otherwise, anyone who wants to enjoy this can be happy with it! A very precise, detailed presentation from you! Respect!
Oh, maybe there's a misunderstanding, but these scents are in no way musty. If you smell dried porcini from a bit of a distance, you get a hint of what’s subtly underlying here (but really in the background) @Ponticus.
That sounds really great again, and it truly deserves the name deconstruction, which makes me really happy! Thanks also for the literary, musical, and delicious tasting tips. I haven't read Tieck in way too long; I'll be pulling it out again right away. Good last sentence. And now I want to get to know that scent too!
Thanks for your responses: I feel understood regarding deconstruction, Tieck, the tips (which you inspired me with), and the last sentence, to avoid what I didn't want to read at one point. And overall. 😁
The lady has caught your attention! I currently have two of her fragrance oils, but I'm still not sure what to make of them. They feel more like mood scents to me right now rather than perfumes.
I actually believe that this applies to their fragrance oils as well, since that's how she describes them, while the EdP / EdC / Extraits are more like actual perfumes or scents. You should try them too! I need to get my hands on the fragrance oils myself.
You seem really taken with it. When I think of good mushroom scents, I often think more of the mycelium than the edible mushrooms. And now I’d love to bury my bare toes in the forest floor.
I also think the scent is fantastic, even though it's not usually my preferred direction. Kamila has a great touch for this kind of thing... I especially like how the coffee and mushrooms are incorporated. I see you treated yourself to one of the last bottles like I did :-)
That sounds nice, even though leather doesn't always suit me either. We have that in common. And the sweetness has to be subtle with notes like cocoa; then it can smell really lovely. Yes, I’d be interested to know more.
I really like patchouli (Givenchy Gentleman 74 was my signature scent in the 80s), but not when it dominates the fragrance too much. A good example: Mazzolari Patchouly.
Great to hear from you!
Thank you!
(Brave mushroom lovers sometimes replace truffle oil in pasta recipes with exquisite oud oils... Mushroom is mushroom ;-).
Thanks for reading!
I’ve already had the chance to experience their way of modulating the mushroom note in other fragrances, and I really like it.
Very nice recommendations!
With this perfume, it seems to work 👋🙂🤜.
Kamila Aubre enchants you. 😊 And YES: appreciating something is more than the sum of its parts.
A lovely label. I'm considering getting a sample set.
The scent might not resonate with me as much, but that doesn't matter. The world of fragrances is colorful and vast. 🌈
And by the way: mushrooms... Nope, I'm not saying anything 😜😜
Thanks also for the literary, musical, and delicious tasting tips. I haven't read Tieck in way too long; I'll be pulling it out again right away.
Good last sentence. And now I want to get to know that scent too!