Basilica Milano Fragranze 2021

I feel that Incense Perfumes are one of those olfactory families that suffer from dullness, and if you smell a few, you've smelled them all. Therefore, coming across a perfume like Milano Fragranze’s Basilica was a pleasant surprise for its different approach to the incense theme. To me, however, this is not first about frankincense, but rather about herbs, most importantly, thyme. I love thyme. Fresh in foods or smelling it dry. It is one of my favorite culinary herbs. This perfume makes such a strong use of it, next to rosemary. If you disagree with them, don’t even bother with Basilica. Thyme is a major component of this fragrance, followed by rosemary. I’d say they hint more to the dried herbs than the fresh ones. The second major part of the composition is the woods: cedar, sandalwood, and cypriol. They lay down a beautifully textured foundation for the herbs that push strongly throughout the life of the perfume. The smoky aspect only comes in as a third player for me, as a combination of frankincense and warm resins. It is rather meek, overshadowed by the first two; therefore, don’t stop by seeking strong fumes. The unusual suspect worth mentioning is the “milk accord,” which turns slightly sour when combined with the overwhelming herbaceous qualities, while the pairing of cypriol, thyme, and frankincense imbues an undeniable salty quality. So far, you can see how this can steer into rather “weird territory.” But the thing is, it works unexpectedly well. I say unexpectedly, as it might come across to many (as you can clearly read from others' impressions) as a “savory gourmand,” reminding them of Focaccia Bread or Pizza. And if I let my mind roam, or if it just happens that I am hungry, I can totally smell that. In fact, the first time I tried Basilica, I thought it smelled like the most delicious, warm Italian bread, served with some juicy olives and herbs, next to a Basilica on a Sunday Mass. But if one pays attention, it’s easy to break the fantasy into pieces and recognize it for what it is: a warm, woody, and smoky perfume seasoned with abundant herbs. Therefore, I like to think of it as an “accidental gourmand,” because I don’t think the creative direction intended for it to be one. Only the interplay of notes and accords, and perhaps too much wishful thinking about the mouthwatering Italian cuisine, turned it unofficially into one. Therefore, I believe the way it will be interpreted will very much depend on how hungry you are.

All in all, it is a fun, cozy, and original spin on the monotonous incense accord. The pairing of smoky liturgical and “foody” nuances reminds me of another such interpretation, also of Italian heritage, the elusive NOUN from Bogue Profumo. I guess Italians like associating the two, or perhaps they hold their esteemed cuisine to a “Holy” status, and I don’t blame them.

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