Bois de Paradis Parfums DelRae 2002

Michel Roudnitska once mentioned in an interview (available on 'boisdejasmin') that Bois de Paradis was the fragrance whose composition brought him the most joy, even though it took him two years of work and about 300 trials to find the perfect formula. However, he already had a fairly precise idea of which notes should characterize the scent: cedarwood, wild rose, jam of exotic fruits, and glazed chestnuts (marron glacé). At first glance, this sounds terribly sweet, and ultimately the fragrance has indeed turned out quite sweet, but not as sweet as one might expect given such an ingredient list. Its sweetness is heavy and dark like the sweetness of caramel, or like the sweetness of forest fruits, blackberries, figs, and chestnuts. And this sweetness is present throughout the entire fragrance journey of Bois de Paradis - initially contrasted by a hint of citrus and bergamot, and almost simultaneously by a powerfully blooming rose. A very persistent rose that serves as a sort of bridge between the fresh start and the woody, lightly incense-tinged finish - it is the central element of this scent. Surrounded by lush cotton growth, aromatic berries ripen under its heavy, robust blooms, and juicy figs float above them. A hint of cinnamon bark spices the swelling aromas that merge into a fragrance of the most sensual kind - and this scent is truly sensual, almost paradisiacally sensual! However, it is not lustful; it lacks the animalistic dimension (and the fall from grace has not yet occurred....). No, its sensuality is modest, reveling in the pleasures of the Garden of Eden, and one (I) does not want to stop sniffing this fragrance, inhaling its aroma, yes, sucking it in like the nectar of a ripe fruit - I am getting carried away!

This fragrance is also something to rave about: it is so well made that one can only marvel! And the true wonder of this scent is that despite all its richness and heavy sweetness, it maintains an almost airy lightness, along with transparency and dryness. The air in this paradisiacal forest is not breathlessly heavy and stuffy; rather, it is clear and sun-drenched. And indeed, the fragrance never takes your breath away, even if you overapply it!

This little olfactory miracle also clearly distinguishes it from those fragrances with which Bois de Paradis is often compared: the scents of Serge Lutens, particularly the early 'Feminitè du Bois', 'Bois et Fruits', and 'Arabie'. Here too, the themes are: flowers, woods, and fruits, but the fragrances of Serge Lutens possess such loudness - as if someone were shouting into a megaphone! - and an almost intrusive intensity that I find them almost unbearable (after all, I do not want to overwhelm my counterpart - and myself - with my scent...), whereas Bois de Paradis has none of the oily heaviness and loudness of the Lutens fragrances; quite the opposite. Despite all its richness and exuberant sensuality, it maintains composure and holds back discreetly, instead of boasting exuberantly.

Michel Roudnitska has achieved something similar with Noir Epices, a fragrance that is just as opulent and sensual, just as addictive as Bois de Paradis, and equally restrained. I suspect that he inherited this talent, or this knowledge - to give a substantial fragrance its appropriate volume without letting it scream - from his father, Edmond Roudnitska, the creator of Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage, and Diorella. Jean-Claude Ellena - like Michel Roudnitska, a student of his father - masters this as well, but has chosen to further develop the minimalist aspirations of Roudnitska Senior, while his son relies more on the richer creations of his father - in the aforementioned interview, when asked about the most important perfume of his father, he mentions 'Le Parfum de Thérèse'.

It is also interesting to follow the various reactions and descriptions of Bois de Paradis on the internet - they are almost universally positive to enthusiastic, but there is considerable confusion regarding its gender classification. Is the fragrance more suitable for women, which many affirm, or can men wear it too, which is often urged, especially by women? Well, I can only say that as a man, I wear it without any problems. However, I would not label it a unisex fragrance, as I believe it is clearly a feminine scent, albeit with a masculine tendency - similar to Bulgari Black, like Bois de Paradis, a fragrance in which one can hear the echo of the great feminine fragrances of the twenties and thirties, those scents that were created for elegant ladies sometimes in masculine outfits, and not for girls in flip-flops and Bijou-Brigitte jewelry...

So, a feminine fragrance that men with a sense for well-made scents can wear without any issues. And finally: those who have no problems with the heavy orientals of Serge Lutens will certainly have none with Bois de Paradis!

Among the exclusively good fragrances from Parfums DelRae, this one is by far my favorite! And last but not least, it comes in a beautiful bottle and in tastefully simple packaging - what more could one (woman) want?

Bravo!