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4
British Amber
John Stephen is almost something like a grey eminence of the neo-Victorian perfume culture, which has established itself as a fixed component and repeatedly popular marketing concept in the fragrance world since the resurrection of Penhaligon's in the late 70s, alongside the "real" survivors from old times (like Trumper's or D.R. Harris). In addition to the Cotswold Perfumery, which has been in operation since 1966, Stephen was responsible for many of the Czech & Speake fragrances (notably the classic No. 88), designed the first flight of the Boadicea series, created bespoke fragrances for the Queen (thus promoting himself against the wishes of the royal house), and in 1983 created the unfortunately almost forgotten, perfect English perfume: Cotswold from the short-lived house Dukes of Pall Mall. Unfortunately, I am only familiar with Amber from the many fragrances of his own line. This is a fundamentally solid, well-made fragrance aimed at men, which cleverly Anglicizes the conventional oriental theme. Empire Amber, so to speak. This is achieved through the appealing peppery-herbaceous top note, in which I perceive lavender, pepper, and camphor-like notes, as well as fruity-ester accents that elegantly transition into the rather light vanilla-Ambroxan base, which unfortunately cannot compete qualitatively with Lutens or, more closely, the also Anglo-oriental but significantly more natural "Souk" from the Cotswold colleagues Essentially Me. All in all, solid craftsmanship, but not a highlight like in the case of No. 88, Cuba, or Cotswold.
