Anessa
Anessa's Blog
8 years ago - 06/20/2017
12 16

"wow-factor"

I often see people judging a fragrance solely on the criterion whether it possesses "a certain wow-factor" or not. While the definition of such is still somewhat elusive to me, I had accepted it without much thought when I began on my review-reading journey.

Some will nonetheless grant a neutral rating after admitting the fragrance is nothing 'unique', whereas others dismiss it as something completely worthless, giving it a negative rating.

As reviews themselves are intrinsically and inevitably of subjective nature, I might as well leave it be. And yet, I sometimes can't help asking myself if, and since when, the fragrance world and its perfumers had signed a silent contract to, if ever, only create fragrances with "wow-factors". And if they do not meet this obligation, their creations seem doomed for ill-favoured reception, even condemnation.

Of course, I do understand when the 'consumer' (audience), who was charged with a very high price, in exchange regards this as a(n) (unspoken) promise of the 'performer'-part to deliver "something really astonishing, knocking off one's socks", since the consumer wishes to emotionally and rationally justify the expense. However, it would be questionable whether the majority of perfume houses are really promising such "one-of-a-kind, magical, life-changing, eye-opening moments" besides their standard copywriting.* They certainly imply the 'quality' being relative to the asked price, where the measure for a fragrance's "quality" will be subject of individual interpretation. It still remains a fact that In most cases, with exception of some houses, the perfumers will not be the ones granted with maximum power over, nor maximum profit from, the price set on their creation.

With that being said, what are these "wow-factors" exactly, a novel uniqueness which had never existed under the sun (or rather, one's nose had never met yet)? Something special that will grab the attention of the whole room? As a matter of principle, a fragrance loses its 'uniqueness' once its success prompts many 'follower' products, and in the worst case it could actually be compared and subordinated to exactly its own non-related offsprings probably in the 3rd generation, by someone (perhaps) oblivious to the historical order, and be called "Nothing unique, not the best of its kind, there are much better ones around". Someone will always be the pioneer, serve as the founding stone.

I had never used the term "wow-factor" for anything myself, but when I think of other fields like literature, music or cinema, there will be those that are well-made and enjoyable entertainment or offer food for thought, and then those which touch me deeply in a personal way. I am sure it's the same with fragrances, despite the limited possibility of fragrances being 'intellectually' stimulating. While music could well be the latter, fragrances seem to be much closer to one's instincts and primal reactions, like the sense of taste.

So, considering the above, are "wow-factors" something that touches the person on a deeply emotional level? Or rather something like the newest blockbuster using the latest CGI? Something that provides the feeling of a 'kick'? An olfactory climax? Or just something that would set the wearer apart from "the rest of the crowd"?

I could imagine and understand (almost) all of the above. As for the last, it is interesting to observe that many people, while insisting to smell 'unique' and, supposedly, take care to show themselves in every other facet as 'unique'/'outstanding' to the world, would still need the feeling of acceptance and security of a larger group. Perhaps - since I am ignorant in this field, I can only speculate - this is the extension of adolescence where many strive to be 'different' by identifying with and simulating their chosen role models. I find that, in order to aim for 'uniqueness', one needs to define and set a certain reference frame to distance oneself from, and this itself is an act showing a present dependence. 'Uniqueness' within the visible bounds of safety.

Lastly, without meaning offense, I rather think that the urge/wish/need to stand out from the crowd with every means possible, even with a fragrance, seems rather based on a competitive mindset focusing on "me vs. the rest of the crowd (rivals?)", a character trait more pronounced in some persons than in other. Otherwise, we ourselves are certainly not full of "wow-factors" all the time and do not have to be, and still remain unique animals, each on our own (even in our natural smell.)

*I will exclude those that justify the high cost with not only the quality of ingredients, but with the explicit promise that the fragrance will have 'mystical' effects on the wearer and the surroundings.

12 Comments
AnessaAnessa 5 years ago
A great comparison with short-lived fashion trends, new sensations following the other which seems more suitable for gossip magazines (and I wonder if one does not become saturated/tired at one point and slips into a state of passive participation). While I also believe in innovation, forced uniqueness for the sake of it would appear factitious like borrowed plumes to me. Unique quality could certainly be timeless, possessing potentials for changes and evolution while maintaining its identity.
AnessaAnessa 5 years ago
Thank you for reading and your comments, Vivienne and ThanosKon! I agree that "wow"s tend to refer to the "first few seconds" (the same allegedly decisive moments for a person's first impression) and cannot do justice to the complex and unfolding nature of perfumes. For the industry, it is understandable to employ the universal strategy of grabbing interest and attention. When consumers respond with instant thumbs up/down, I find it unfortunate esp. for the thoughts that went behind creations.
VivienneKVivienneK 5 years ago
And like with fast fashion - particularly for women - there has to be some ridiculous "wow-factor" every couple of weeks only to be disposed of in the next few. Instead if you look at men's bespoke tailoring, you will see that there doesn't have to be something outrageous or attention-grabbing, actually more like the opposite, it's more about the quality and incremental change, but mostly refining and up-dating the existing formula - to perfection ad infinitum.
VivienneKVivienneK 5 years ago
Excellent article, Anessa! I wholeheartedly agree with the points you make. The part where you highlight the futility of chasing after the "wow-factor" as being almost as absurd as trying to be "unique" by still identifying with a group of other "unique" people really made me smile. However I do feel that sometimes magic happens and like with any innovation there may occur something that is truly unique in a loosely artistic sense. But it doesn't have to be the ultimate goal.
ExUserExUser 5 years ago
Just read your great article (I am new to perfumo).
I'm an artist myself and see the "wow moment" as an instantaneous response of just an aspect. While I embrace those moments I don't trust them.
Perfume is an organic entity altering in time; apart from top/middle/base notes' development there are also alterations related to temperature, humidity or even skin ph, psychological aspects etc.
The industry knows it and aim for wow top notes.
For me "wow" = "fast food" consuming or marketing.
ElysiumElysium 8 years ago
Congratulation Anessa, you got the point! Whatever scent I am reviewing, I try to be honest while describing the emotions and feelings it gives me. Yes, at the very first whiff one might think "Whoa!", because that is a nice surprise... still, it is a personal opinion. So, I can't stand people saying "Meh!", just because the scent is nothing about what they expected. There're no bad scents unless they're gone bad, of course... rather, there are scents that our nose, mind, or mood does not like!
AnessaAnessa 8 years ago
Oh wow, ScentFan, yours must've been an immersion course, it really sounds like a great and steady way for training the nose. Thank you a lot for the good advice! I will look for what's in my reach and see what would work for me, even as a guest student :-)
ScentFanScentFan 8 years ago
Four years of this virtually non-stop and my nose is a lot smarter now. There are still gaps in my learning, though, which I want to fill and trying to do that is a real joy. In fact, the time I spend on perfume is easily one of the happiest parts of my day. Just dive in and enjoy in whatever way works for you. Soon enough your nose will get its diploma.
ScentFanScentFan 8 years ago
Don't despair, Anessa, you'd be amazed at what you can learn and pretty fast. What I did was order a beginners perfumery notes kit from The Perfumer's Apprentice and added to it over time. I bought samples of resins, etc., from Eden Botanicals primarily. When I sniffed a new perfume, I'd look up the notes using the fabulous database here and/or other sources. If it had Plumeria I'd pull that out from my kit and sniff. I'd repeat with every note in the perfume. I also did sniff fests by genre.
AnessaAnessa 8 years ago
ScentFan, you're very right that in order to 'grasp' and evaluate perfume reviews, one certainly needs to have minimal knowledge of the material. Otherwise I imagine it's similar to a layman like me reading a scientific article. With my snail pace, I fear it'll take years to reach a certain point where I could count myself to the serious perfume fans, and I'll surely never get the perfume school's black belt ;-) I'll try to learn even as tourist, though! Thank you for reading and commenting!
AnessaAnessa 8 years ago
Parfummaniac, Thank you for your reading & your kind comment! I myself do use the "wow"-exclamation quite often, and now it crosses my mind that it's not always meant as positive astonishment, rather the equivalent of 'I just makes me speechless'. I wonder if people look for that kind of 'wow' in fragrances as well...?
ScentFanScentFan 8 years ago
Anessa, an interesting article. One factor is It may be harder to assess perfume reviews without really knowing perfume, which takes time. You said you're a beginner? The education of the nose is a big part of any perfume school's curriculum and also part of the journey for serious perfume fans like most who post on perfume forums. I get completely different things from Luca Turin today, for example, vs when I started.

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