Apicius
Apicius' Blog
10 years ago - 03/25/2015
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Rare Micallef perfumes

I see that some of you are interested in finding Micallef perfumes on the net. There is still a lot to discover by Micallef rsp. their house perfumer Jean Claude Astier that is a bit off the beaten track.

Geoffrey Nejman has apparently been busy over the years touring Europe and keeping a good contact to their business customers. Besides the perfumes that you find on their site Micallef is offering a "Private Line": fully customized perfumes, made in small batches on request of perfume shops and other businesses who want to offer their own "signature" perfume.

I use "Private Line - Richard", a gents' perfume made for Beauty Affair in Düsseldorf. It is such a lovely and well-crafted fig perfume that it has become one of my favorites. Unfortunately - discontinued. I have just ordered a bottle of L'Or du Verger Homme by Maison de la Mirabelle. I am curious of how JC Astier has coped with the topic mirabelle plum in a gents' cologne!

So far, we have identified quite a few of those special 'Micallefs'. Often, their availability is limited. Once they are sold off, one cannot take it for granted that the customer orders another batch. Also, some of them are not on sale online. Here is my overview. I hope it will come in handy for you:

1.) The Anne-Marie Grallet line for Maison de la Mirabelle, Rozelieures, France

http://www.parfumo.com/Perfumes/AnneMarie_Grallet

"L'Or du Verger pour Femme"

"L'Or du Verger 2 pour Femme"

"L'Or du Verger pour Homme"

Availability: English website, international shipment

Samples: no

http://www.maisondelamirabelle.com/

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2.) "Qessence" for Missala, Poland

Availability: English website, international shipment

Samples: yes, http://www.perfumeriaquality.pl/probki/

http://www.perfumeriaquality.pl/

http://qessence.missala.eu/www/?lang=en

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3.) Various fragrances for Parfümerie Brückner, Munich, Germany

Availability: German website, international shipment

Samples: no regular samples but they may send a perfumed tissue.

http://shop.parfuemerie-brueckner.com/marken/parfumerie-bruckner.html

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4.) Signature Line - various fragrances for Schlossparfumerie Wolff & Sohn Stuttgart, Germany

Availability: German website, international shipment

Samples: yes

https://www.schlossparfumerie.de/unser-Parfum/

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5.) Various fragrances for Parfümerie Brauer, Leipzig, Germany

http://www.parfumo.com/Perfumes/Brauer

Availability: no online shop

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6.) AJ Arabia

http://www.parfumo.com/Perfumes/AJ_Arabia

A new brand from Abu Dhabi. Not sure about Micallef's involvement but Jean Claude Astier has been named as the perfumer.

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7.) The 1707 line for Fortnum & Mason

no samples available

https://www.fortnumandmason.com

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8.) Apparently discontinued:

"Galeries Lafayette Berlin pour Femme"

"Königsallee Düsseldorf"

"MR Success" and "Private Line - Richard" for Beauty Affair, Düsseldorf, Germany

"Private Line - N°7"

"Gutenberg Limited", "Gutenberg Man", "Gutenberg Woman" for Heike Ackermann, Mainz, Germany

5 Comments
BriarthornBriarthorn 10 years ago
Great article. Thank you for doing such fantastic research. I have never really looked into this house but you have really piqued my interest now. I am always awed by people with so much passion for their art. To hand paint the Flacons, that shows dedication and love of their work. I am impressed.
ApiciusApicius 10 years ago
I like Micallef's use of Svarovski stones. The flacons of some of their older lines are really artistic. Just have a look at "Red Sea" for example. Then, when they became more popular it was evident to me that so much manual work would be hard to keep up with. We then saw flacons that had a cleaner and simpler design but were literally packed with Svarovski stones. Look at Jewel, Jewel for Him, or Rose Extreme: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/170010954659821796/
ApiciusApicius 10 years ago
Pipette, their regular lines have a good presence in the perfume market all over the world. I don't think there are official sample sets but samples are available from First in Fragrance or Luckyscent. My article only covers the hard-to-finds but there is so much more to say about this brand. It is a small business. Behind Micallef, there is Martine Micallef who gave the name. I think she designs all the decorations of their flacons. The Season line and the Sea line are all hand painted with manually applicated Svarovski stones. I once saw her at a fair sitting behind her stand and decorating her flacons. Then, there is Geoffrey Nejman, her husband. He seems to be the businessman with good connections into the Arab region. And then, there is Jean Claude Astier, the perfumer who always stays in the background. Like many perumers, he has his style which is now the style of Micallef. The perfumes generally are on the more opulent side and rather classy. No hyper-freshness but lots of patchouli, vanilla, and a few very remarkable ouds. Their Aoud Man is an oud with a honeyed tobacco note, and my interest for perfume started with this fragrance - but that is a different story.
ScentedSalonScentedSalon 10 years ago
I didn't know they did this. Awesome. I really liked their Rouge series.
PipettePipette 10 years ago
They strike me as a luxury house. I know only two perfumes, "Watch" and "Rouge No. 2" but both have excellent quality. Thank you for this well researched article. I am curious whether the house has a sample set - must dig for that.

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