Leatherama | Part 2

Here we are again. The leather journey continues, and it is getting more challenging! As the scores increase, understanding which fragrance should be rated higher/better is not as obvious. A quick reminder about the fact that this is a subjective view on all the listed fragrances (i.e. your liking/disliking may be wildly different), and that beyond the usual apparent factors I will try to also award uniqueness as much as possible. If you're interested, check Part 1 for the "rating scale" reference.
As always, I am interested in knowing your thoughts!

Louis Vuitton - Nouveau Monde | 8/10
Part 2 starts with a difficult one to score, relative to other fragrances on this list. Let's start by saying that it doesn't smell like Ombre Nomade, and no… it's not heavy on the oud (unless you have a Lasiodiplodia theobromae colony living in your nose). I really like it. It is leather dominant, but it is very werable and inoffensive as it is surrounded by cacao, vanilla, a hint of animalic, and just a bit of rose.
The trouble is that, putting aside the first 15-30 minutes where the openings are different (in NM, you have the noticeable addition of blackcurrant), there is another fragrance that is composed around pretty much the same dry down experience (perhaps, with slightly better performance) at an exponentially cheaper price. You'll need to keep on reading to find out, I am afraid...
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: as animalic as LV's leather can be

Tom Ford - Ombré Leather Eau de Parfum | 8/10
The mother of all contemporary leather fragrances, and effectively a milestone to compare against. If you are willing to develop your taste around leather, this is probably the best starting point - the price is reasonable at discounters. Brutally, I would ignore the other flankers because this achieved the perfect balance between animalic facets, ambery sweetness and overall performance. You'll find plenty of good reviews around, so I won't waste your time any further. In terms of this list, anything that follows will be more interesting for sure but at the price of balance.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: present, but balanced

Xerjoff - Cruz del Sur I | 8.25/10
Oh look, an underhyped Xerjoff! You can tell that CdSI is not a crowd pleaser, but a fragrance that required a few wears so it can be appreciated. It opens with a piratesque mix of bergamot, rum and a spicy dried fruits aroma. As it evolves, a "rum soaked leather" will become more apparent along with smoky myrrh, more spices and incense. The dry down base is composed by sandalwood, cedar and a prominent castoreum which gives it a perceptible animalic nuance... which could be challenging for some. Admittedly, this is not something that I would wear every day but given its mature complexity I think it deserves a high score. Sample first, if you are not used to animalic tones.
- Leather component: yes, boozed up
- Animalic rudeness: pirate grade

Nobile 1942 - Rudis | 8.25/10
Rudis by Nobile 1942 is the first artistic and narrative-driven fragrance that appears on this list.
The opening is about red wine, dried fruits, and bergamot. It transitions into a metallic floral heart where rose and geranium, sharpened by clove and saffron. Cedarwood adds a dry, linear structure that grounds the composition. The base is where Rudis finds its soul: leather, patchouli, vetiver, and frankincense form a smoky, earthy long-lasting foundation. Rudis is not a crowd-pleaser, as it has a few notes that can offend (e.g. clove) but a statement piece for those who appreciate storytelling through scent. The presentation (complete with a handmade leather box) is among the finest in my collection.
- Leather component: spicy leather, especially in the dry down.
- Animalic rudeness: the hint is in the name, but not as animalic as Cruz del Sur I...

Dior - Fahrenheit | 8.25
I won't spend many words on Fahrenheit. In 37 years, people had enough time to discuss it - even before Trollgrantica and Parfumo came to life. Personally, I can say that Fahrenheit was the only fragrance that my father wore consistently, so it is part of the family heritage. In my opinion, this version (not the Parfum) is still a staple in leather perfumery, most likely thanks to its peculiar use of violet. On the other hand, I recongnise that it won't be appleaing to those who appreciate contemporary trends... and that's fine. You don't need a bottle, but make sure to sniff it for reference.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: as animalic as a leather jacket can be. Minimal

Matiere Premiere - Falcon Leather Extrait | 8.5
The extrait version of FL is clearly superior from any aspect, excluding the price. It preserves the same base as the OG, but the scent profile is less dry. The benzoin is amped up and the addition of Firmenich proprietary oud complete the composition's roundedness... and most likely contributes to its increase in performance.
To me, it smells like treated leather sports equipment (think baseball glove, in case you don't own a trained falcon) in the best possible way.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: minimal

Sospiro - Erba Leather | 8.5
Erba Pura is the Salt Bae of fragrances. A meteoric rise and fall, overplayed (e.g. Pazzaglia built his "empire" around its "clones") with little substance. There is a parallel universe where Nurset has 3 PhDs and invented a solution to solve famine globally. This is what Erba Leather is, compared to Erba Pura... and Provenzano is the brainy alt-Bae boy. EL is a "fun leather" fragrance, that starts with a mix of ripe (but not sweet) passion fruit and leather. After 1 hour the passion fruit goes away (and the similarity with Oud Maracuja ends there), but the jasmine kicks in. As the fragrance progressively evaporates, it becomes more and more musky. Excellent performance, and reasonable price - at discounters.
- Leather component: dominant, but in the late dry down it becomes more musky
- Animalic rudeness: minimal

Xerjoff - Golden Green | 8.5
Given the score, Golden Green surely deserves a better description… but I am feeling a bit lazy: this is Sauvage Elixir made greener and leathery. It's the definition of a hidden gem, and I don't understand how it doesn't receive more attention - perhaps the usual influencers haven't been gifted enough of these red bottles? Anyway, besides the Sauvage inspiration, Golden Green is more emphatic on cardamom, leather, vetiver and (green) unroasted coffee beans. Great performance, and all year round wearability!
- Leather component: secondary
- Animalic rudeness: none

Philipp Plein - No Limit$ | 8.5
No Limits punches well above its price point. It delivers a vibrant and spicy opening—black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and star anise mingle with juicy bergamot and a subtle aquatic freshness. As it evolves, the heart reveals a smooth blend of chocolate, vanilla, incense, and amber, creating a smoky-sweet vibe.
... and yes, the dry down draws a striking parallel to Nouveau Monde by Louis Vuitton at a fraction of the cost. I suggest to compare these two, before you make a purchase.
No Limits is well balanced, wearable and minially animalic. Despite its budget-friendly presentation, it is rather complex and has excellent performance.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: minimal

... and that's it for Part 2. If you still can't have enough, check my blog next week for more leathery madness. Part 3 and Part 4 are coming your way!