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10 days ago - 11/27/2024
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Jean-Claude Ellena: The Fragrance Poet of Perfumery

Jean-Claude Ellena: The Fragrance Poet of Perfumery

An insight into the life and work of Jean-Claude Ellena, the "writer of fragrances", who shaped the art of perfumery as a master of reduction and poetic depth.

Art is seduction, and the way of writing is a form of seduction. There is breathing and there are transitions, just like in sentences. Perfume is above all a mental construction.

Jean-Claude Ellena; Scentertainer.net

Jean-Claude Ellena is a living legend of perfumery - a master of the art of creating fragrances in a minimalist and poetic form. With his philosophy of "less is more", he has spent decades creating iconic fragrances that delight people all over the world and inspire perfumers. This article takes us on a journey through his legacy: from the fragrance-filled moments of his childhood in Grasse that laid the foundations for his passion, to his formative years at Hermès, where he created some of the brand's best-known fragrances today as in-house perfumer, to his role as a poet and writer.

Jean-Claude Ellena (© Photo: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle)
Jean-Claude Ellena (© Photo: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle)

Childhood in Grasse: The scent of Provence as a muse

Jean-Claude Ellena was born in 1947 in Grasse, the city that has been the heart of perfumery for centuries. The scents of Provence captivated him as a child: lavender, jasmine and orange blossom were everyday smells for him, but they fascinated him and awakened in him a special passion for aromas. One of his first scent memories goes back to the time when he was four years old and sniffed the sweet, promising scent of a hidden cookie tin in the kitchen cupboard. Or how he carefully held a butterfly in his small hands and perceived the delicate, fleeting scent of its wings.

My father rarely talked about his work and my mother wasn't interested in it. Of course she was interested in the money he earned from it. But my father snooped on everything - the book he was reading or the food he was eating. My mother thought that was unseemly. Maybe I became a perfumer to find out what fascinated my father so much.

 Jean-Claude Ellena; Spiegel.de/international 

However, Ellena struggled at school and was always struggling with poor grades. Discipline was not his strong point, so his father, who was a perfumer himself, decided to take him out of school and introduce him to the world of perfumery. Even before Ellena really knew where his path would lead him, he began this path alongside his grandmother, who picked jasmine flowers with him early in the morning on the slopes of Grasse to sell them later to perfumeries.

Jasmine flowers from Grasse are a valuable ingredient in many luxury perfumes
Jasmine flowers from Grasse are a valuable ingredient in many luxury perfumes

At the age of 17, his father got him a job as an assistant at Antoine Chiris, one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. Over the next three years, Jean-Claude worked in various departments from the research laboratory to the distillation rooms. It was a tough school that helped him not only to perceive aromas, but also to understand them. 

The beginnings at Givaudan - The dream becomes reality

1968 marked an important step in Jean-Claude Ellena's life: when the Givaudan perfumery school opened in Geneva, Ellena became its first student. This is where his professional journey into the world of fragrances began. He learned the basics of perfume composition and found his vocation in this training. His talent was soon noticed at Givaudan - a flair for fragrances that set him apart from others and gave him his first taste of success. 

A particularly formative moment in his career was when he met Edmond Roudnitska, one of the most influential French perfumers of his time. At their first meeting Roudnitska invited him to his home in the south of France.

I arrived, a little shy. He opened the door and looked at me. 'You stink,' he told me. 'You smell like detergent. Come back tomorrow, maybe we can talk then.'

Jean-Claude Ellena; marieclaire.com

Roudnitska was blunt in his honesty, but that was exactly what Ellena appreciated about him. He quickly became a mentor to Ellena, giving him a new perspective on perfumery - a perspective that sees fragrance as a form of art. Both shared the conviction that true beauty is linked to generosity. Roudnitska taught him a method of composition that focused on the essentials. At a time when perfumes often consisted of hundreds of ingredients, he taught Ellena the power of reduction and how to achieve more with less.

After his training, Jean-Claude Ellena returned to Paris. With his fragrance "First (Eau de Toilette)" for Van Cleef & Arpels, he celebrated his first major success at the age of 28. This breakthrough opened further doors for him in the industry. Thus Ellena took on leading positions as a perfumer in well-known houses such as Givaudan, Roure-Givaudan and later Haarmann & Reimer.

'First (Eau de Toilette)' by Van Cleef & Arpels
"First (Eau de Toilette)" by Van Cleef & Arpels

In an interview with Destination Deluxe, he recalls that he was working with high expectations of himself at the time, always striving to meet the demands of the market and follow in the footsteps of the great classics. 

I know how to make "Chanel No. 5" with a few products. I basically know everything. I have the technique. I've played with all these things. And "First" for Van Cleef & Arpels is a result of that. And when you smell "First", of course it's unique, but you can also smell "Fidji", you can smell "Chanel No. 19" and other perfumes in it.

Jean-Claude Ellena; destinationdeluxe.com

He extracted what he considered essential and special from the great fragrances of perfume history and fused these essences into a unique expression of his artistic understanding. But over time, his approach changed:  "I am myself," he says. What he creates comes from himself, regardless of the market. His top priority is to create something that he himself likes.

In 1990, together with famous perfumers such as Jean Kerléo and Guy Robert, he founded the Osmothèque - the world's first and still largest archive for perfumes. Here they preserve historical fragrance compositions and bring the rich tradition and history of perfumery to life for future generations.

The exterior view of the Osmothèque
The exterior view of the Osmothèque

The heyday at Hermès - the birth of a fragrance legend

In 2003, an extraordinary opportunity came his way: Hermès offered him the position of exclusive house perfumer - a role that would allow him to shape the brand's fragrance identity from the ground up.  Ellena agreed, but set two conditions: He wanted to live and work in his native Grasse and be creatively free without having to worry about commercial constraints. Hermès agreed and so began a new era for the perfume house, which was to be shaped by Ellena's vision.

His first collection for Hermès, the "Jardin" series, launched in 2003 with the fruity, fresh and green fragrance "Un Jardin en Méditerranée" - inspired by his journey along the Nile. The collection became  a fragrance journey that took people to different places around the world and elevated perfumery as an art of storytelling to a new level.

'Un Jardin en Méditerranée' by Hermès
"Un Jardin en Méditerranée" by Hermès

This was followed in 2006 by one of his most famous creations for Hermès: "Terre d'Hermè". The Eau de Toilette combines fresh citrus and spicy notes with a warm, woody base. It embodies the successful balance between lightness and depth and reflects Ellena's ability to create something of extraordinary elegance and complexity from simple compositions.

Although Ellena officially retired from his role at Hermès in 2015, this by no means marked the end of his journey as a perfumer. He continues his journey as a sought-after freelancer, working on innovative fragrance projects and advising renowned brands around the world. His name is synonymous with over 50 masterpieces for Hermès alone, as well as numerous other fragrance compositions for luxury brands such as Bulgari, Frédéric Malle, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Van Cleef & Arpels, Balenciaga, Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Giorgio Armani and many more.

One of his first major successes outside of Hermès was the perfume "Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert", which he designed for Bvlgari in 1992. Inspired by the delicate, calming aroma of green tea, Ellena created a composition that was revolutionary at the time. The fragrance beguiled with its freshness and lightness and ushered in the era of "tea fragrances".

'Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert' by Bvlgari
"Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert" by Bvlgari

A philosophy of clarity and simplicity

For Jean-Claude Ellena, perfumery is more than the mere technique of blending fragrances - it is an art form, a language that brings emotions and memories to life. Ellena pursues a philosophy of reduction and refinement based on the principle that less is often more.

In an interview with The Plum Girl Ellena compares his approach to that of a chef: "Being a perfumer is like being a chef. You give your all when you cook for friends." For him, reduction is not a sacrifice, but an enrichment that opens the way to the essence of a fragrance. His fragrances consist of only the most necessary ingredients in order to create space for nuances and surprising perspectives. This philosophy is reflected in Ellena's principle "1 + 1 = 3" : two fragrance notes merge to unfold a third, unexpected dimension 

He sees himself as a "writer of fragrances" and begins each creation with handwritten notes that put his ideas into words. For Ellena, a fragrance should be felt intuitively rather than understood. His compositions are therefore far removed from "loud", one-dimensional perfumes - they are quiet narratives that linger in layers. A perfume, he believes, must tell stories, evoke memories and inspire.

Even though he prefers a reduced fragrance palette, Ellena remains open to innovation - but only if it offers genuine inspiration. He is skeptical of modern "loud" fragrances such as Ambermax, which dominate many current perfumes: They often make perfumes overpowering and take away the subtle seductive power that Ellena believes is the true essence of a perfume.

A perfume is not just a product! It has to be more than that. A perfume must be seductive. It has to tell someone a story or make them hear and tell their story better. These "PRODUCTS" are not seductive.
They hit you over the head and scream out loud: I AM HERE.

-
I'm here, I'm here, I'm here - that's all I hear. And I ask myself: so what? You are here, so what? Who are you? What are you trying to say? Ah!

Jean Claude Ellena; theplumgirl.com

Between fragrance and poetry: the literary works of Jean-Claude Ellena

However, Jean-Claude Ellena is not only a perfumer, but also an author. In his book "The Dreamed Fragrance: From the Life of a Perfumer", published in 2012, Ellena tells of the small, often inconspicuous moments that inspire his creativity: the delicate scent of tomato leaves, a gentle spring breeze, the salt in the air on a summer's day. For him, these impressions are like miniature stories that he incorporates into his fragrances. The book is less an instruction manual than an invitation to experience perfumery through the eyes of an artist who understands the creative process as "scent poetry".

Taschenbuch Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent von Jean-Claude Ellena
"Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent" by Jean-Claude Ellena

Another work, "Perfume: A Guide to the World of Fragrance", is an entertaining and educational journey into the history and techniques of perfumery. Here, Ellena not only explains the basics, but also shares his conviction that perfumery is an "alchemy" where art and science come together in a special way. For him, the harmony of a fragrance is often the result of opposites that he brings into balance.

A living legacy

Jean-Claude Ellena has been honored with numerous awards for his exceptional work in the perfume world. He has received six FiFi Awards, the "Oscars" of the perfume world, for his fragrance creations. For his cultural contribution to the art of perfumery, he was awarded the French Order Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres, an honor bestowed on only a few artists and which underscores his status as an artist in his field.

His home town of Grasse also honored him with the Medal of Honor for his achievements. In 2015, Ellena finally received the German Duftstars Award for his life's work - a milestone that recognizes his longstanding, formative influence on modern perfumery and his position as one of the most important personalities in the art of fragrance.

Today, the 77-year-old lives in seclusion near Grasse. The city where it all began. He is still an unmistakable voice in the world of perfumery, which he continues to enrich as a freelance perfumer. Since 2019, he has been sharing his creativity and knowledge as olfactory director of Le Couvent, developing a modern haute parfumerie inspired by his philosophy of simplicity.

His legacy is a reminder that the true magic often lies in simplicity - in the reduction to the essentials that makes a fragrance timeless and unforgettable.

sources
https://scentertainer.net/en/perfumer-jean-claude-ellena-the-alchemist-of-scent/; https://www.tuoksu.co/blogs/perfume/jean-claude-ellena-the-man-behind-the-fragrance-empire?srsltid=AfmBOopGRj6D0lp2FMz3sXGAb1_5Sv0we0w3bX260vrgXNZbCoLaBw2k; https://www.spiegel.de/international/business/perfumer-jean-claude-ellena-discusses-the-life-of-a-nose-a-855685.html; https://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/a9638/jean-claude-ellena-hermes-interview/; theplumgirl.com https://theplumgirl.com/interview-with-jean-claude-ellena-the-plum-girl/; https://nstperfume.com/perfumers-a-to-e/jean-claude-ellena/; https://destinationdeluxe.com/jean-claude-ellena-interview/; https://destinationdeluxe.com/contact-destination-deluxe/; https://www.manager-magazin.de/lifestyle/mode/briefings-sind-bullshit-a-1029942.html

pictures: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Exterior_of_the_Osmoth%C3%A8que.jpg#/media/Datei:Exterior_of_the_Osmoth%C3%A8que.jpg; https://pixabay.com/de/photos/duftjasmin-jasmin-zierstrauch-5267072/

2 Comments
JulianoBRJulianoBR 9 days ago
2
I really admire JCE's work, my favorite fragrance of his is Cartier Declaration.
TheDunkPapaTheDunkPapa 10 days ago
5
A very pleasant read. I must say that I have mixed opinions about Ellenas work, it feels like his most interesting and impactful work happened around the Hermes era, and he has since dropped off a bit. I'm primarily thinking of Le Couvent here; it's a very iterative perfume house with little to no innovation, and it feels like his philosophy of less is more is dragging Le Couvent's fragrances down: they feel linear and without much depth most of the time.
All that having been said, he was certainly extremely impactful in his prime and has much to be admired for.

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