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SixAmbregris

In search of resinous pine fragrances

SixAmbregris | Perfume Recommendations

... ScentNebula I think I've figured out that pine is a note I really love in fragrance. Two of my favorites are "Fille en aiguilles | Serge Lutens" (tragically discontinued so I've only been able to smell a dupe, which sadly had way too much iso e super in the base) and "Arso | Profumum Roma". I would like recommendations for similar pine-heavy scents that preferably also have a resinous note, e.g. labdanum, cistus, frankincense. Hello, Really quickly: I'm fairly certain "Fille en aiguilles | Serge Lutens" is not discontinued. It's usual now for the SL website to remove the page of any perfume they don't have in stock at the moment (which can last months and months) as if the scent never existed, but then the page reappears eventually, when they have stock again. If you check their official website, it is available for purchase right now, in the gratte-ciel bottle still (before it disappears again and moves to a bell jar) :)

9

ScentNebula

8 months ago

SixAmbregris

SMN? Santa Maria Novella? Anyone?

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Lightning speed drive-by: Came sooner than I thought, but "Sandalo (Eau de Cologne) | Santa Maria Novella" and "Lavanda Imperiale | Santa Maria Novella" passed away on Aug 1st. There's one single bottle of Sandalo available on SMN's EU site (+10 bottles in the UK, and 3 in JP) but that's it. For Lavanda, the stocks seem to be 9 bottles in the UK, 18 in the US and 3 in JP. I'm still seing both perfumes still for sale on various other e-stores, but it presumably won't last very long, so if you loved one of these two, it might be time to stock up. Also, everyone has seen the two new Giardini, right? "Acqua | Santa Maria Novella" and "Quercia | Santa Maria Novella"

28

SixAmbregris

08/06/2024

SixAmbregris

Favorite American Niche?

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Arquiste !

13

KathrynA66

08/01/2024

SixAmbregris

Just made the switch from Fr*grantica

SixAmbregris | Parfumo Community

... DogiCoco The intended use is: Tested - everything you ever tested. Worn fragrances get added automatically because the algorithm assumes that you have tried something when you have worn it. It's a bit annoying for people who want to separate fragrances they merely tried and moved on from those they own. Wishlist - I want to own it (like a birthday wishlist). Watchlist - I want to sample it (or maybe in some cases also: I want to keep an eye on the reviews). Of course everyone can decide what they want to do with their profile and use it differently, but that's how most people use it. You can always add custom collections to make it more clear or to separate different sub-groups. For example I have a huge collection of samples I currently own and don't want to move to "tested" yet because I feel like I don't know them well enough. Thank you for taking the time to detail!! (and @Hapax too :) ) It would actually be great to pin y'all's explanation somewhere? It seems to be a recurring question for newcomers, so having it at hand would be mighty convenient! Even if it's "use it as you want, really", if most members tend to use the two shelves in the same way, I suppose many new people will want to do the same, for clarity's sake.

32

Psmellsnice

07/29/2024

SixAmbregris

No feedback on my perfume

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... ...boggling at y'all actually receiving comments from other people on your perfume 😁

13

Ceesie

07/28/2024

Ceesie

SixAmbregris

Politically incorrect fragrance notes?

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... Ringtale @Hi @Anamandy, I think this book is not as simple as being about 'avoiding words' that could be painful to some. Many dictators start of their campaign promoting 'free speech' and 'free thinking' (encouraging people to even insult others, thinking that that is what freedom is all about) and then, when gaining power, they will ban journalists, punish people that are against their government and so on to stay in power. It's when 'free speech' becomes just 'one way trafic' when it stops being about real freedom and I think this book is more about that than about being conscious of what ones words can do to others. For me personally, avoiding words that could hurt others is part of my freedom (!) to consult my own conscience before I speak and not to be 'prisoned' by the idea that we all 'must' say whatever we want, not matter the impact. Incidentally, and stepping a bit aside for a sec but still on-topic: it is scientifically established, time and again, that language influences perceptions, thoughts and representations of the world - random example, "fireman" will, unconsciously, make little girls integrate - not even "think" - that it is "not for them"; while "firefighter" won't have that effect. Language doesn't exist in a vacuum, outside of time, place, culture, you name it; it is very much contextual, has connotations, and it does evolve, with society and/or preceding it. It's all but "censorship" to move away from words that have a connotation/weight that has become socially/culturally undesirable in place P and time T. The example has already been given above, but here and now, using the N- word would be totally not OK. I guess that when that shift started, some people felt censored and silenced too.

79

Apicius

07/28/2024

Apicius

SixAmbregris

Politically incorrect fragrance notes?

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... Ringtale I think, when it comes to words and speech, it is all about 'intention', but that is often not clear when we're not in a 'live' discussion. So I think, in that case, it is best to avoid words that can be painful to some. And hearing John Lennons 'Imagine' in my head right now :-) @Ringtale : this exactly! I personally think that it doesn't hurt me to stop using words that do hurt other people, after all. But more importantly for the topic, the perfume industry has more or less collectively decided that it was indeed a good idea to move on. My take is, outside of any "moral" considerations, the older discussion here about how adequate or not the word "ambery" is to describe a perfume, has pretty much become a moot point by now, since the perfumery world itself has decided to use it.

79

Apicius

07/28/2024

Apicius

SixAmbregris

Scent of the Day

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Not yet in the database, but: glorious Spoturno 1921 ! ❇️

13007

Moni43

07/28/2024

Moni43

SixAmbregris

Politically incorrect fragrance notes?

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... I have one thing to add, here. We do agree that Michael Edwards is the authority in terms of fragrance categorization, right? At least, pros of perfumery apparently do. Well, ten years ago, his wheel had "oriental notes" as one of the big families. Now, 2024, his wheel has "ambery notes" instead. Everything else put aside, wouldn't it be only logical to follow the industry itself? ETA that if Guerlain ( Guerlain , seriously) is now calling "Shalimar (Extrait) | Guerlain" " the first ambery perfume in history ", I don't see why we should insist on keeping on using here an appellation that is clearly obsolete.

79

Apicius

07/28/2024

Apicius

SixAmbregris

How much time do you take before you post a review?

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Honestly? Forever . I can have first impressions quickly when discovering a scent, of course, but most of the time, I know that they will evolve and get more precise after several wears. And to actually publish a review, I usually feel the need to really be familiar with the perfume to be able to say something pertinent / useful, and not shortchange it, so to speak. In a nutshell, pretty much the opposite of @Kurai, ;) Now, that's me, and people will vibe with certain styles and not others - some are bored with long reviews, others like details. Personally, I do see little point in three-word-tops jots like "Eww, old lady!", "Mothballs." or "Total scrubber!" as they actually say pretty much nothing about the scent. On the other hand, I find that a first impression statement like "Artificial, generic fruit notes, smells more like a shampoo than a perfume" is useful to have a solid, general idea of what the scent is like. So, I couldn't do that, but I still find that first impressions, when they're clear and strong, certainly have their place and their usefulness. Most importantly, again: each their own! I'd tend to think that reviews are meant to help the reader, but they can also very much be about your own pleasure to write about something you (dis)like, too - so everyone, knock yourselves out! It's bound to resonate with someone anyway you look at it.

17

Ringtale

07/28/2024

SixAmbregris

Any standout examples of artist working on exclusive bottles

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... DrydownLofi Incredible, thanks for sharing this! ...I knew I was forgetting something! Serge Lutens, of course! They had a long tradition of releasing an exquisite version of one of their bell jars every year (30 bottles made, each time). I've been dreaming of the "Mandarine-mandarin Limited Edition | Serge Lutens" ever since I saw it. Now it seems they've expanded to the rectangular bottles too, both in mega LE (12 bottles and that's it) and more accessible versions like "Ambre sultan gravé | Serge Lutens". Here comes some voluminous eye candy. Brace yourself.

8

DrydownLofi

07/28/2024

SixAmbregris

What are your favourite and least favourite bottle designs?

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... I try (keyword: try. ;)) to not pay too much attention to the bottle, but I was just thinking a few days ago that if I fell in love with one of the Stora Skuggan, I'd be in a pickle - I find their bottling downright repulsive and I can't imagine having to face something like "Thumbsucker | Stora Skuggan" every time I open the perfume cabinet. Even some of the names - " Mistpouffer", "Thumbsucker"? - feel ewww. On the other side, isn't it kind of crazy that a century ago, you could have your perfume come in an ornate, crystal Lalique design as standard, without having to sell your kidney for it? Wouldn't say no to a bottle of "Ambre Antique | Coty", myself. Oh, and? I find everything about the original packaging of "Poison (Esprit de Parfum) | Dior" perfect - be it the shape, the multi-symbolism of the apple, the contrasting jewel tones of purple and emerald, it's mastery.

48

Mitchcraft

07/27/2024

SixAmbregris

Any standout examples of artist working on exclusive bottles

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Kilian has released several bottles re-decorated by artist Sophie Matisse: "Straight to Heaven – Splash of Lemon Sophie Matisse Art Edition | Kilian", "Good Girl Gone Bad - Splash of Neroli Sophie Matisse Art Edition | Kilian" or "Bamboo Harmony Sophie Matisse Art Edition | Kilian". But the Cherry Blossom is not the only one, Guerlain is regularly doing these incredibly ornate bottles in LE, like their yearly Muguet release and quite a number of others - the "Pièces d'exception" page on their website shows half a dozen of them and they do look like someone's spent a month on one bottle!

8

DrydownLofi

07/27/2024

SixAmbregris

5 perfumes to smell/test/try before you die

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... DRKSHDW Unpopular opinion: Chypre de Coty (extrait) is better than Mitsouko; it's original, interesting,&nbs p;androgynous, raw! Shalimar is my baby. But Mitsouko and I don't get along. Honestly, I don't know how to feel about Guerlain taking (stealing?) L'Origan, Emeraude and Chypre (revolutionary) formulas and making them more plush, soft, feminine, melancholic. It's too bad that Coty family sold the company and it became a cheap drugstore brand, while Guerlain maintained their luxury brand image which made them so desirable. "L'Heure Bleue (Extrait) | Guerlain" and L'Origan are similar, too. (Vintage) L'Origan is deep, fiery... I like it better. Shalimar is untouchable though. The leather/tar note is a nice touch, and Guerlain's vanilla is superior. ...you know what? I'm right in the middle of a Coty re-exploration and: I'm finding more and more that the Big Ones deserve to be put at least on the same pedestal as Jacques Guerlain's versions. I do adore "L'Heure Bleue (Extrait) | Guerlain", but I've lucked out on an early 30s bottle of "L'Origan (Parfum) | Coty" and lord is it gorgeous. Comparatively, I find it more "modern", now, than L'HB as it doesn't have the waxy bottom heaviness of the latter, and arguably clearer, more "breathable" by lack of a better term. Also, the carnation note prominent all through L'Origan, well into the base notes? So, very , beautiful. YMMV, but overall, and in very broad terms, I find the Early Cotys to be more...immediate, in a way, more legible, while Guerlain took their "template", so to speak, and reworked them into sophisticated perfumes. I love "Emeraude (Parfum) | Coty" as it is and I think it's hard to deny how much "Shalimar (Extrait) | Guerlain" is a... let's say charitably an "homage" to it, but indeed, I find Shalimar to have way more depth, more allure - "more things to say", in a way.

15

Lidijabern

07/27/2024

SixAmbregris

SMN? Santa Maria Novella? Anyone?

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... Also, PSA: a new EdP is coming up in the Medici Garden series! It's called Acqua , and the notes mentioned are lotus flower and pear (so, no reference to an earlier scent of the house, just like "Bizzarria | Santa Maria Novella" last year). It's already for sale in the flagship store in Florence and should be offered online soon (I checked with customer service and they confirmed). The "pear" gives me pause, but I'm still quite curious to smell it!

28

SixAmbregris

07/27/2024

SixAmbregris

SMN? Santa Maria Novella? Anyone?

SixAmbregris | Perfumes & Brands

... DRKSHDW SixAmbregris DRKSHDW Oh no! I've been thinking about buying "Marescialla | Santa Maria Novella". I always tell myself, "It can wait! It's been there for centuries! Literally." It's out of stock everywhere now! 😥 I agree, new owners will probably butcher the brand, reformulate everything, switch to cheaper ingredients and raise prices... 😭 I've had a quick check in my three go-to online stores for SMN in the US and gosh, yes, "Marescialla | Santa Maria Novella" "shines by its absence", as we say in French. Going to go on a digging mission. By the way, very unfortunately, reformulations have already happened. Apparently "Marescialla | Santa Maria Novella" and "Pot-Pourri | Santa Maria Novella" are reported as having suffered a lot (great, just the ones I love most!), uncontested star "Melograno (Eau de Cologne) | Santa Maria Novella" has changed to the point of "this has been my signature for years but by this point, I won't repurchase". I can't really attest of anything there (although I have a 1997 bottle of "Melograno (Eau de Cologne) | Santa Maria Novella" and ouch, the difference is painful, but 25+ years in a bottle have necessarily changed the scent). On the other hand, "Patchouli (Eau de Cologne) | Santa Maria Novella" I can very much reasonably compare the current version to the 2021 version (managed to snap up a bottle). And there, it all depends on personal tastes: - O riginal version was pretty much the craziest raw, raspy, brutal patchouli you could imagine, no frills, no discernable amber or vanilla or anything to make it a tad bit more amenable. To give you an idea, you see a bottle named "Patchouli" a couple meters away and you know your Reminiscence "Patchouli (Eau de Toilette) | Réminiscence", so you go up unsuspectingly and tap on the SMN bottle's shoulder. It brusquely turns around and straight out headbutts you in the nose. Cracking noises not impossible. So, unwearable for most people, a marvel for its cult worshippers. - 1221 Club version : tamed, plastic-surgeried, prettified into completely wearable. It might actually sell! Cult worshipers are livid. It's sad that we have to witness the fall of another great house. Added Marescialla and Patchouli to my search list on the reselling/second hand app. Hopefully some bottles will pop up sooner or later. I love me some brutal violent patchouli; sounds perfect! Oh, then you're in for a treat! I've seen quite a number of SMN (with a fair amount of vintage golden-foil labels) pop up on Mercari; average price level seems to be raising, last I looked it was still reasonably OK but who knows, with the discontinuations...

28

SixAmbregris

07/27/2024

SixAmbregris

Autumn Fragrances

SixAmbregris | Perfume Recommendations

... EvitaVilla "Replica - Autumn Vibes | Maison Margiela" of course, but also "Rousse | Serge Lutens", "Five o'clock au gingembre | Serge Lutens", "Philosykos (Eau de Parfum) | Diptyque" , "Calèche (Eau de Toilette) | Hermès", "La Peau Nue | Celine", "Sables | Goutal" . "Rousse | Serge Lutens" ! Yesss, a bit dry-dusty but autumny indeed. Seconding the soft mellow sandalwood of "Santal majuscule | Serge Lutens", too. Looks like Uncle S. can lean that way a number of times, actually. I had forgotten "Jeux de peau | Serge Lutens" could also totally fit the bill, as it's also a soft sandalwood, but with a breakfast / goûter (there's no equivalent to goûter in English?! It's the 4pm little meal where you usually have sweeter food, toast with jam, brioche, cookies, you name it, and the school day being over makes it all twice yummier ). Er, so, I was saying, there's a cosy, warmth of being home, goûter mood to it as the creamy sandalwood is topped with a (quite realistic) scent of toasted bread, a touch of apricot jam, and next to it a warm bowl of sweetish, milky beverage (opinions might differ on which, but I am firmly convinced that it has at least some North-of-France typical chicory). This one might actually be the best bet, come to think of it! (...er, I just realized that we might all be recommending away Uncle Serge remembering the good ole' days of the 85 euros bottles. Unfortunately, things have been turning stupid a few years ago at now-bought out Lutens ®, Inc. The prices have spiraled up and the perfumes jump randomly from one collection to the other, change bottles (and prices and availability), and then change again, so they might not be the most convenient options. Still, they're really worth testing, especially with the specific mood you're looking for, I'd say!)

16

Jenevieve

07/25/2024

SixAmbregris

Autumn Fragrances

SixAmbregris | Perfume Recommendations

... I don't know if you've seen yet that there's a possibility to see all perfumes people have tagged "autumn" here ? There's one I know is generally thought of as wonderfully cosy-autumny: Etat Libre d'Orange "Like This / Like This - Tilda Swinton | Etat Libre d'Orange". A lot of people talk about a cosy-warm-sweet-pumpkin pie scent, it sounds like it would be in the line of what you'd be looking for? (My impression of it is quite different, as the fresh ginger note remains strong on me all through, and it never goes into gourmand territory for me, but somehow it feels both very singular, and indeed warmth-of-home-y. Love it!)

16

Jenevieve

07/25/2024

SixAmbregris

5 perfumes to smell/test/try before you die

SixAmbregris | Perfume Discussions

... DRKSHDW "Echt Kölnisch Wasser (Eau de Cologne) | 4711" one of the first original classic cologne creations "Chypre / Le Chypre (Eau de Toilette) | Coty" the mother of all chypre perfumes "Opium (1977) (Parfum) | Yves Saint Laurent" fng masterpiece!! Vintage EDT is great, too "Poison (Esprit de Parfum) | Dior" or "Poison (Eau de Toilette) | Dior" THE tuberose to rule them all... sorry, Fracas "Shalimar (Extrait) | Guerlain" the mother of the amber-y vanillas... and/or her mother "Emeraude (Parfum) | Coty" I also wanted to include Angel, the original gourmand... Top 6. Sorry, I'm cheating! 😛 It's so difficult to select only 5 perfumes! Also, it's always a good idea to hunt down vintage bottles/older formulations on EBay, Etsy, etc. Because most of them don't smell like they used to. Some of them are not available anymore (Coty Chypre, Esprit de Parfum, Opium parfum concentration). Totally concur - Coty should be there by all means. Considering, you know, he kind of created modern-day industrial perfumery, and chypres, and ambers, after all ;) The call is probably that Jacques Guerlain's copies versions of the original Coty creations are the ones that remained huge up to today, so "Shalimar (Extrait) | Guerlain" would trump "Emeraude (Parfum) | Coty" in an all-stars list, or "Mitsouko (Extrait) | Guerlain" would for "Chypre / Le Chypre (Eau de Toilette) | Coty" (where's the extrait??). Credit is very much due, though!

15

Lidijabern

07/25/2024

SixAmbregris

Just made the switch from Fr*grantica

SixAmbregris | Parfumo Community

... Ninamariah Hapax @Ninamariah If you select which fragrance you are currently wearing, this fragrance will automatically be added to the tested fragrances if it is not already there. You can use the Assistant to see which fragrances you have worn and how often. Click on your profile picture at the top right to find it. You can then click on „Tracker“ to see which fragrances you have worn often or rarely and can select a specific year or „Overall“ for the total. Thank you so much @Hapax ! That I was thinking but it s seems that many are using that shelf for "Tested" ones not worn ones (of course it's basically the same thing). I want that I have separately tested perfumes of which I have made some kind of decision whether it's for me or not and I have some kind of picture of those scents. Tested are for me as well that kind of perfumes which I didn't like and have given the rest of the samples away. I don't want to mess my "worn" shelf with something which I didn't like at all and needed to scrub off. As a side comment: I had been looking everywhere, including in the German forums, what the difference between the "Wishlist" and the "Watchlist" was, to use them "properly". And what I gathered overall, in the end, was that it was pretty much up to you do decide what to do with each! I'd say we could also re-appropriate the "Tested" shelf, then - I don't know yet what I'll do with it, but in the meantime, I've been deleting the auto-added SOTD from it every time as I personally have no use for that. And for all shelves, I find the option to add "Notes" to every perfume listed invaluable, it allows you to customize pretty much everything.

32

Psmellsnice

07/24/2024

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