Colonia Leather Acqua di Parma 2014 Eau de Cologne Concentrée

I am somewhat divided on this. Colonia Leather unfortunately does not quite align with my taste in many respects, which is a subjective feeling and thus negligible. Overall, the fragrance drifts too much into gourmand territory in the top and heart notes for my liking. However, from the base onward, it regains its footing and becomes undeniably beautiful. Nevertheless, the opening of the fragrance does not convince me qualitatively either and lags a bit behind other creations from the fragrance house.

In general, it can be stated that the indulgent faction at AdP has prevailed in the composition of Colonia Leather. Finer noses might initially flinch in shock upon spraying. This was designed for fans of a hedonistic lifestyle, as one is practically overwhelmed by the raspberry vat. For my taste, a few fewer nuances would have sufficed; hints of soda, liqueur, and lollipops are unfortunately undeniable.

The leather note, which gives the fragrance its name, also takes a few minutes to break through this sweet scent wall. Once it arrives, however, it sets interesting accents. With a rough imprint and slightly bitter nuances, it provides an appropriate counterbalance to the sugary fruitiness. However, I miss connecting elements in this initial phase of the heart note; the raspberry and leather compete a bit for dominance without really wanting to embrace each other.

As it develops further, Colonia Leather gains substance, and pleasing, even softer undertones are woven into the structure. On one hand, a hint of rose becomes noticeable; slightly crystalline and with exquisite powderiness, it integrates very well into the overall picture, particularly complementing the raspberry note.

As an additional accent, a subtle smoky note has been incorporated into the arrangement, skillfully managing the transition to the base. The fragrance calms down, becoming intimate and mature. The previously dominant tannins in the leather accord give way to a gentle and sensitive structure, while warm wood tones provide a mild foundation. The further the base note progresses, the more it gains in sovereignty. While the fragrance initially had something unusually loud about it, I must attest to a maturity in the later development that I find thoroughly pleasing.

In summary, one can attest that AdP has also achieved a successful interpretation of a trend with Colonia Leather, albeit not a revolutionary one, that has already seen its best years. The oud wave was also picked up in Parma with considerable delay, with the more noteworthy Colonia Oud in my opinion. Just under a hundred years after the legendary Colonia, I would wish for AdP to once again walk its own path to prepare the next classic. They certainly have the potential for it.