Pigfarmer
13.03.2017 - 02:44 PM
3
Very helpful Review

my kinda vetiver oriental

Aeon001 goes on with real purpose and undeniable presence. The very first impression is the densest, chewiest smoky vetiver that you’ve likely ever come across, unless you are familiar with Profumum Roma Fumidus. But associations with that peaty-whisky smokebomb are very fleeting, as there is SO MUCH going on here besides. There is a bright top end of juicy bergamot, and an interesting grumble of tuberose lurking in the bottom end, soon joined by ylang, which REALLY brings to mind possibly the finest frag of 2014, MAAI by Bogue Profumo. In fact I had to do a double take at the box to check that this wasn’t a new Bogue. It also got me wondering who was behind this promising smell…..
Within 20 minutes, this dense ball of heavy chypre base, smoky vetiver and bright bergamot really started to open up. That’s when real excitement in perfumery begins: the development stage(s). It became very clear that the vetiver was indeed the star of this show, but what wowed me was the duality of the vetiver on offer here. A remarkable pas-a-deux of light and dark, salty and smoky, earthy and grassy all at the same time. I can say with some confidence that this represents a vetiver lover’s wet dream, carrying all facets whirring over and through the base like a fragrant wraith. Even more stunning is the fact that despite this omnipresent display of all of vetiver’s facets, the note does not dominate the composition, ever. In fact this could be the coolest vetiver for non-vetiver lovers since Coeur de Vetiver Sacré. This stage lasts a solid hour at which point you are ready for the main attraction: floral oriental
Once the vetiver show took a seat, the associations with Maai made a return but only on a very superficial level, the tuberose. It just won’t budge but it is quite sotto voce, adding texture rather than presence. What becomes clear is that this is a multi-chaptered story and the plot development is interesting as hell. Where Maai brings in cumin, musk, and oakmoss to build its lasting phase, Aeon001 has the grace to lighten up with a (as the ad copy promises) spicy but translucent labdanum and a very light but effective touch of petitgrain (I think) which is damn impressive this far into the development. The effect is reminiscent of Duchaufour at his best: hefty weightlessness. This is just effortlessly nice to wear and truly enjoy.
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