Isis Agonist 2013

It is always a double-edged sword to write a rather critical comment, and I would like to preface that my feelings are, of course - as always - highly subjective. Since Isis also takes on a highly interesting development, I do not want to squeeze what I have to say about Isis into a small statement. That would certainly not do justice to Isis.

For me personally, the critical comments are often the most helpful. I can read what others did not like and assess whether I might be similar in that regard. If there are only very positive comments about certain fragrances, I often suspect that this can only be one side of the coin, as there are surely people who do not like every fragrance. Then I ask myself: Should I perhaps belong to those who do not like it? In such moments, I wish someone had already expressed their differing perception. Therefore, I find it important that those who do not like a fragrance also comment on it.

But it’s not that bad at all. It’s not that I don’t like Isis. On the contrary, Isis begins with a wonderfully bright, fresh top note that simultaneously exudes a spicy warmth. This top note is truly extraordinary and exceptionally well done, so at that moment, I thought: I have to have this! It seems that the blend of the very naturally scented tangerine and the cistus has perfectly matched my taste.

As it develops, Isis becomes increasingly warmer, while the spiciness remains, partly even intensifies, while the tangerine quickly disappears. With the heart note, something fruity comes to the forefront, but I do not recognize it as peach; rather, it becomes a sweet-fruity conglomerate. At this point, I think to myself that I am not particularly fond of undifferentiated sweet fruits as a focus in a fragrance. The sweetness now takes on a strange sharpness. This is supposed to be caramel. I would have preferred a recognizable fruit that is integrated into more than just sweetness; I do like that. My initial enthusiasm is thus waning a bit. Gradually, heliotrope also emerges. I like a bit of it, but heliotrope becomes slightly too much for me. Here, it is at the limit. It essentially forms the bridge to the base.

After perhaps three hours, the fruity notes have completely vanished, and the base fully emerges. Unfortunately, this is again a deterioration for me. It contains a form of -now inevitably artificial- musk that I find unpleasantly stuffy. Now the fragrance seems very artificial to me, and the vanilla is also artificial.

The only thing that keeps me from washing off the fragrance is the labdanum. It feels natural and spicy, which I really like. Nevertheless: surrounded by thundering artificial vanilla and stuffy musk substitutes, as well as a remnant of heliotrope, Isis has unfortunately reached its low point for me. By the way, I do not notice any amber at all. Perhaps what I find so enormously unnatural is supposed to be amber or Lorenox™?

For friends of sweet fruits and for those who may have a different perception of artificial scent compounds, Isis is surely a good and modern fragrance with a very interesting development and certainly stands far above the ubiquitous, currently offered vanilla-sweet fruit cocktail. With the fresh top note, Isis fits well into the summer months, while the heart note and especially the base hint at winter cuddling.

Personally, I would only want to wear the very harmoniously balanced, naturally appearing, and simultaneously interesting top note. Unfortunately, it fades too quickly while the entire Isis shows very good longevity of well over 9 hours.