The Infidels Agonist 2009

The wrinkled tonka bean seems to be dedicated to this perfume. It has a vanilla-like aroma but goes beyond pure vanilla scent: dark, rough, yet also ethereal aspects come into play. This gives the tonka bean an earthy aspect. Imagine a handful of potting soil enriched with vanilla aroma - that's the direction tonka takes in perfumes. It is dirtier than vanilla could ever be. I think the aroma of the tonka bean is an essential component of perfumes like Gaultier's Le Male, Body Kouros, or Nikos Sculpture. Both inexpensive perfumes like J'S Exté Man and classics like Guerlain's Jicky utilize it.

Just like vanilla, the scent of the tonka bean in perfumes tends toward opulence. Sometimes it can come off as fat or intrusive. Just look at the controversial opinions about a perfume like Le Male; the tonka bean is certainly not entirely innocent in this regard.

And that's what The Infidels is about: tonka bean is presented in such a way that its specific aroma comes fully into play, while simultaneously avoiding any broad, intrusive opulence. This is achieved with a delicately fresh top note, which is already a small masterpiece on its own. And probably with lavender. It has been used subtly, so that it does not stand out as such. The result of such a sparing dosage of lavender is, in my experience, that a perfume gains an ethereal, floating character without smelling too lavender-like or herbal.

The base notes also hold back and only support the scent. After a while, I even perceive The Infidels as slightly powdery.

The Infidels is quite something special. If the goal was to slim down the tonka bean, then it has been achieved. Everything feels very light and discreet, yet still has oriental power. In this direction, The Infidels is a very Scandinavian-simple, puristic scent.

The Infidels is also a special perfume in its presentation: not a spray, but available in a stick bottle. Nevertheless, it is not an oil; it has a normal consistency. I find this quite unusual and perhaps not particularly practical. Moreover, there is no quantity indication; one has to be satisfied with the information that the egg-shaped bottle occupies a space of 14 x 10 x 9 cm. The price for this is steep - €409, of which part is likely attributed to the Scandinavian design of the bottle. That is clearly too expensive. I would consider a price around €100 to be reasonable. For it is by no means four times better than - let's say - Guerlain's Jicky!

So, this comparison is something The Infidels must also contend with. Next to a Jicky in all its genius, the puristic concept of The Infidels can also be perceived as somewhat bloodless.

The Infidels is a puristic, elitist scent that is offered at a high price and in an unusual presentation. Surely, only a few perfume enthusiasts will ultimately want to acquire it.

Many thanks to Kankuro for the sample!