Dionisiac Collection - A Grimm Rose Amaranthvs Herbis
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A stroke of luck and a masterpiece
A stroke of luck!
For a year, carefree travel was not possible. But now, August 2021, it should finally be so far again. We traveled to Italy. The relaxing beach vacation in Forte die Marmi was followed by a stay of several days in Florence. And Florence was fantastic, as always. We let ourselves drift through the streets of the old town. And so we also crossed the small Via della Vigna Nuova, not far from the Ponte Vecchio. A small alley that dozes away in the shade of the tall houses surrounding it.
A small store immediately aroused my interest. There were a few bottles in the tiny display, the door closed. We looked into the store premises. The store area appeared tidy: on one side we could discover a shelf with flacons, all belonging to one label, on the opposite side were hundreds of small silver bottles distributed around a workstation, not unlike a fragrance organ. The door sign identified the place as "Amaranthvs Herbis." Interest was piqued.
In the evening in the hotel then the research: "Amaranthvs Herbis" is a Florentine perfume label, but at Parfumo found only a few entries, although very promising. According to Google, however, no more opening hours should exist, the small, just discovered store seemed to be permanently closed.
It was so disappointing - there we found such a small, promising store by chance and now it was closed. But a try I still wanted to make, in the Google entry is a phone number given. Thought, dialed: and indeed, someone picked up. We chatted briefly in English and arranged for the next early evening in the small store.
What a stroke of luck: waiting in the store was Vincent Gambino, nose, founder and head of "Amaranthvs Herbis". He had to temporarily pause the business due to personal circumstances. We talked about perfume, the idea of starting his own label, about the website (which, by the way, is completely designed by him, including the little videos, etc.), about life, the future plans of the label and so on and so forth. And all the while he kept giving samples of his fragrances and explaining his intention and approach. It was in heaven.
Now back in home climes and little by little the olfactory treasures are sniffed, dreamed and analyzed...
A masterpiece!
"Grimm Rose" belongs to the Dionysian series of "Amaranthvs Herbis". Now one could write here excellently about the Apollonian and the Dionysian principle of Nietzsche, sing about the intoxication of existence (also as part of the perfume passion), philosophize about the attempt to unite the opposite - only, what does this have to do with the fragrance?
"Grimm Rose" is inspired by the Grimm's collection of fairy tales. By the beautiful, yes, even the light, which runs through these fairy tales, but always against a melancholic, a threatening-fading background. But also the play on words, which results from the English way of writing (the sinister, the grim rose), is reflected in the fragrance.
The top note starts with a bright, transparent rose scent, which is supported by an implied tea note. This tea-rose combination is already accompanied from the beginning in addition by a slightly metallic note (this is probably to represent the blood chord).
A complex, narcotic beginning, in the course of which the rose gradually becomes heavier and heavier. A rum tone also resonates at once, the ethereal-alcoholic further visibly presses the lightness.
In the heart note then: the raspberry. If it was initially (at least for me) hardly or not at all experienceable, so it becomes after some time more and more present. Now the use of raspberry in perfume is very difficult. It can be used, as in the Tom Ford curated fragrance "Tuscan leather" quasi as a fruity counterpoint to the heavy leather, but it can also be used, as in this case, to give a floral fragrance a physical presence, yes, I would like to say: a meatiness, because of its fruitiness.
In base notes, the fragrance persists in a strange discrepancy of lightness and weightiness. An animalic note creeps in, but only of a whisper. The rose is certainly melancholic and dark, but never dirty.
I think the fragrance is a masterpiece. It is a conceptual, yet very wearable fragrance. In the best sense, this shows the strength of a small niche label: creative, captivating and novel.
The presentation, so both the beautiful packaging, as well as the hand-flattering flacon contribute in turn to the solid image, even if the mastery is not achieved, which the fragrance exudes.
For a year, carefree travel was not possible. But now, August 2021, it should finally be so far again. We traveled to Italy. The relaxing beach vacation in Forte die Marmi was followed by a stay of several days in Florence. And Florence was fantastic, as always. We let ourselves drift through the streets of the old town. And so we also crossed the small Via della Vigna Nuova, not far from the Ponte Vecchio. A small alley that dozes away in the shade of the tall houses surrounding it.
A small store immediately aroused my interest. There were a few bottles in the tiny display, the door closed. We looked into the store premises. The store area appeared tidy: on one side we could discover a shelf with flacons, all belonging to one label, on the opposite side were hundreds of small silver bottles distributed around a workstation, not unlike a fragrance organ. The door sign identified the place as "Amaranthvs Herbis." Interest was piqued.
In the evening in the hotel then the research: "Amaranthvs Herbis" is a Florentine perfume label, but at Parfumo found only a few entries, although very promising. According to Google, however, no more opening hours should exist, the small, just discovered store seemed to be permanently closed.
It was so disappointing - there we found such a small, promising store by chance and now it was closed. But a try I still wanted to make, in the Google entry is a phone number given. Thought, dialed: and indeed, someone picked up. We chatted briefly in English and arranged for the next early evening in the small store.
What a stroke of luck: waiting in the store was Vincent Gambino, nose, founder and head of "Amaranthvs Herbis". He had to temporarily pause the business due to personal circumstances. We talked about perfume, the idea of starting his own label, about the website (which, by the way, is completely designed by him, including the little videos, etc.), about life, the future plans of the label and so on and so forth. And all the while he kept giving samples of his fragrances and explaining his intention and approach. It was in heaven.
Now back in home climes and little by little the olfactory treasures are sniffed, dreamed and analyzed...
A masterpiece!
"Grimm Rose" belongs to the Dionysian series of "Amaranthvs Herbis". Now one could write here excellently about the Apollonian and the Dionysian principle of Nietzsche, sing about the intoxication of existence (also as part of the perfume passion), philosophize about the attempt to unite the opposite - only, what does this have to do with the fragrance?
"Grimm Rose" is inspired by the Grimm's collection of fairy tales. By the beautiful, yes, even the light, which runs through these fairy tales, but always against a melancholic, a threatening-fading background. But also the play on words, which results from the English way of writing (the sinister, the grim rose), is reflected in the fragrance.
The top note starts with a bright, transparent rose scent, which is supported by an implied tea note. This tea-rose combination is already accompanied from the beginning in addition by a slightly metallic note (this is probably to represent the blood chord).
A complex, narcotic beginning, in the course of which the rose gradually becomes heavier and heavier. A rum tone also resonates at once, the ethereal-alcoholic further visibly presses the lightness.
In the heart note then: the raspberry. If it was initially (at least for me) hardly or not at all experienceable, so it becomes after some time more and more present. Now the use of raspberry in perfume is very difficult. It can be used, as in the Tom Ford curated fragrance "Tuscan leather" quasi as a fruity counterpoint to the heavy leather, but it can also be used, as in this case, to give a floral fragrance a physical presence, yes, I would like to say: a meatiness, because of its fruitiness.
In base notes, the fragrance persists in a strange discrepancy of lightness and weightiness. An animalic note creeps in, but only of a whisper. The rose is certainly melancholic and dark, but never dirty.
I think the fragrance is a masterpiece. It is a conceptual, yet very wearable fragrance. In the best sense, this shows the strength of a small niche label: creative, captivating and novel.
The presentation, so both the beautiful packaging, as well as the hand-flattering flacon contribute in turn to the solid image, even if the mastery is not achieved, which the fragrance exudes.
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