For me, Material misses the mark as an exploration of vanilla, and as a tribute to Material Girl era Madonna.
Material is a quiet exploration of resins, patchouli and yes, vanilla, but the leathery and boozy aspects. It is devoid of sweetness, and both sillage and longevity are shockingly lacking, especially considering Amouage's historical powerhouse scents. Not to mention the cost. Had it been released as what it is, high quality natural materials that do not have the synthetic boost to provide projection or longevity...well I likely still would take a hard pass, but I could have appreciated the sample more. Having gotten interested on the premise of a grand exploration of vanilla, this was a complete disappointment.
Once I'd given up the ghost of a voluptuous vanilla bombshell, I was able to appreciate and enjoy the dry skinscent; Predominantly a leathery patchouli labdanum with benzoin after very brief boozy dry vanilla opening. Unisex, with a masculine edge. Many niche houses have done similar, with lower price tag.
