4
it's familiar, again
My second review of Amouage's latest collection "The Essences". Review written off one in-doors test off samples purchased directly from Amouage.
Very much like Lustre, Reasons borrows heavily from Amouage's existing catalogue. However, unlike Lustre, Reasons doesn't feel like it brings anything new by itself. The somewhat intense opening features significant accord overlap with Lineage with the spiciness contrasting against green-vegetal type notes. This is perfectly captured by the peruvian pepper tree top note which is also there in Lineage, but it also features patchouli while having some fenugreek-like qualities as well. The mild sweetness is a mix of the cardamom top and a fairly mild benzoin.
When smelling the scent up-close, my initial impression is that it is a more wearable version of Lineage. There is a nuance of "spoiled fruitiness" somewhere in the top, likely coming from the davana, albeit it does come off somewhat similarly to the fruitiness in "Guidance | Amouage" (which Q. Bisch took from his preceding release with Maison Crivelli). Shortly thereafter, you again begin to notice the inclusion of notes reminiscent of Jubilation XXV Man, just like Lustre. However, the drydown appears to be structured primarily as a woody-aromatic scent, mainly giving off the scent of "sweetened pine". Not comparable to sweetened fougère scents nor Serge Lutens' Fille en aiguilles, but perhaps contrasting the J25 ambers against the aromatic tones featured in Amouage's top summer scent, that being Beach Hut Man. Ultimately, it is a fairly plain combination of pine, musk, vanilla/benzoin and some apricotty nuances as the opening blast of Lineage-like notes fades and the scent mainly features accords from Guidance, J25 and Beach Hut in the drydown.
Drydown accords: green-woody-spicy-creamy-sweet
Conclusion. As a scent, Reasons is another scent in "The Essences" collection that features prominent overlap with Amouage's already-released product, primarily borrowing from Lineage in the top as well as a mix and match of accords from Beach Hut Man, Jubilation XXV Man and "Guidance | Amouage" in the drydown. I would have an easier time justifying €420/100ml for this one than Reasons were it not for the incredibly light performance. Ultimately, I arrive at the same conclusion as the preceding review in stating that the bish-bosh around double infusion and oak barrels is empty marketing speak, but as other brands (e.g. Atelier des Ors) are now entering the market using the same trickery as well, I predict this will be a new lane for brands to milk the consumer.
Very much like Lustre, Reasons borrows heavily from Amouage's existing catalogue. However, unlike Lustre, Reasons doesn't feel like it brings anything new by itself. The somewhat intense opening features significant accord overlap with Lineage with the spiciness contrasting against green-vegetal type notes. This is perfectly captured by the peruvian pepper tree top note which is also there in Lineage, but it also features patchouli while having some fenugreek-like qualities as well. The mild sweetness is a mix of the cardamom top and a fairly mild benzoin.
When smelling the scent up-close, my initial impression is that it is a more wearable version of Lineage. There is a nuance of "spoiled fruitiness" somewhere in the top, likely coming from the davana, albeit it does come off somewhat similarly to the fruitiness in "Guidance | Amouage" (which Q. Bisch took from his preceding release with Maison Crivelli). Shortly thereafter, you again begin to notice the inclusion of notes reminiscent of Jubilation XXV Man, just like Lustre. However, the drydown appears to be structured primarily as a woody-aromatic scent, mainly giving off the scent of "sweetened pine". Not comparable to sweetened fougère scents nor Serge Lutens' Fille en aiguilles, but perhaps contrasting the J25 ambers against the aromatic tones featured in Amouage's top summer scent, that being Beach Hut Man. Ultimately, it is a fairly plain combination of pine, musk, vanilla/benzoin and some apricotty nuances as the opening blast of Lineage-like notes fades and the scent mainly features accords from Guidance, J25 and Beach Hut in the drydown.
Drydown accords: green-woody-spicy-creamy-sweet
Conclusion. As a scent, Reasons is another scent in "The Essences" collection that features prominent overlap with Amouage's already-released product, primarily borrowing from Lineage in the top as well as a mix and match of accords from Beach Hut Man, Jubilation XXV Man and "Guidance | Amouage" in the drydown. I would have an easier time justifying €420/100ml for this one than Reasons were it not for the incredibly light performance. Ultimately, I arrive at the same conclusion as the preceding review in stating that the bish-bosh around double infusion and oak barrels is empty marketing speak, but as other brands (e.g. Atelier des Ors) are now entering the market using the same trickery as well, I predict this will be a new lane for brands to milk the consumer.
2 Comments
Although I haven't had the chance to be able to smell these 3 fragrances yet, I want to comment on the fact that you said that this infusion thing is a new trick to suck money out of customers.
If you look at all the things around, infusions can be made into practically anything, why is perfume the only thing that can't be infused? there are perfume brands that already do this and if people's reviews notice the difference (Scents of Wood).
The fragrance review is your opinion, even if you had smelt the fragrance you wouldn't say anything.
But I have a question: are all fragrances that have a common note in the same fragrance house the same?
And dont get me wrong im not trying to be rude or mean but does every house not use the same accord or note in various perfumes?
Just trying to understand this huge wave of criticism that seems to me to be too unnecessarily negative.
Re: common note - you've missed the point. I am giving the reader insight into what the scent smells like and so far, me offering such insights has been extremely easy as the product isn't bringing much new (not to the market nor to Amouage's catalogue). People who have experience with Amouage can get an indication for the profile offered.