Jack Lang referred to the interior architect and designer Andree Putman.
Since I first saw her works, I have been filled with wonder and admiration for this impressive woman and her creations.
For a long time, I have wanted to write a comment about Préparation Parfumée, but I never quite dared to.
Now she has passed away on January 19 at the age of 87 in Paris, and I finally want to take the plunge to describe this fragrance without letting my enthusiasm for the namesake carry me away.
What is so special about her, and what do I expect from the fragrance?
What she created as an interior architect and designer I find simply beautiful.
Her interiors thrive on the interplay of light and space, on the consistent line management, her reduced color palette, in which she connects the extremes of white and black through subtle shades of gray and sand.
The result is simple, intimate, timeless spaces that convey a calm serenity alongside great elegance.
As a designer, she shaped everyday objects from furniture to dishes, jewelry to shopping bags, with equally great mastery and reliably secure style sense.
She was always modern, with her own signature, deeply connected to the tradition of interior architecture and design, especially Art Deco.
I have learned a lot from her by observing and studying her works, and she has certainly had a significant influence on my perspective, my aesthetic awareness, and my sense of style.
Naturally, I was very curious about the perfume that was supposed to express her style and perhaps her essence, and I certainly did not expect anything oriental, sweet-fruity, floral, or anything extreme in any way.
"We talked about wood, wet wood, wood after the rain, driftwood, about water lilies and coriander leaves. I wanted it, the scent, light and fresh...." (A.P.)
And the word "driftwood" immediately releases images and feelings within me:
The empty expanse of a North Sea beach, clarity, cool freshness, the beautiful non-colorfulness under a silvery gray sky, serenity, calm, timelessness.... all associations that other works by A.P. also evoke in me.
And so the fragrance greets me:
I perceive silvery gray, but not sharp pepper and freshly crushed coriander leaves. And that is actually the only thing I can identify; otherwise, the fragrance is rather a tangible clarity, freshness, vastness. Cool with a very slight softness and a hint of warmth, a suggestion of floral notes, and yes, very distinctly wood, bright, damp wood.
A hint of salt in the air, on the skin?
Incredible, actually indescribable, delicious.
One can hardly expect longevity and sillage from such a fragrance, BUT: even here, PP is different. Both are certainly present, not always perceivable to me, but suddenly, with small movements, I clearly have the scent around me. A room I left some time ago and now re-enter greets me with fresh, crisp, soft clarity.
Simple, clear, elegant, restrained, present... as beautiful for women as for men -
Andree Putman (and Olivia Giacobetti) have wonderfully succeeded in translating the very special aesthetics of her designs into fragrance.
Preparation Parfumée is an ideal signature scent. It emphasizes personality; it does not replace it.
Now I naturally wonder whether, despite my undeniable admiration for A.P., I would have liked the fragrance in a blind test.
Yes, certainly, because it corresponds to my preferences.
But it is only the knowledge of the woman who made it part of her life's work, the two bottles she created for the refills, the perfumer she chose, that make the experience complete and turn the fragrance into the total work of art to which I have a very special relationship.
The comment has indeed become (too) long, but: to whom the heart is full......
My son-in-law, a man of few words from the Wesermarsch, would have used two words:
"It fits!"