MEM Bogue 2017

Wow, this fragrance is a real bombshell: full-bodied, multi-faceted, long-lasting, and with a heavy texture, not to say: fat.

Years ago, when I celebrated fragrances that couldn't be loud and opulent enough, 'Mem' would have completely thrilled me. But since then, my preferences have changed somewhat, and I now prefer slimmer, generally more subtle scents. However, 'Mem' is the exact opposite. I haven't come across such a massively orchestrated fragrance in a long time. Dozens of accords buzz loudly together, overshadowed by a booming triad of lavender, honey, and animalic essences.
But, and I really must emphasize this: despite all the cacophony and excess weight: 'Mem' smells good, damn good.
However, one must like fragrances such as 'Jicky', 'Miel de Bois', and 'Kouros'. Polarizing scents, mainly due to their animalic nuances, which reliably evoke associations of toilet stones or full baby diapers. The animalic aspect of 'Mem', in my opinion, has turned out to be quite civilized, especially compared to fragrances like 'Leather Oud' or 'Figment Man'. However, it is probably already intolerable for many, for very many even. Especially since the honey accord, which develops relatively little sweetness, gives this animalic haze a certain heaviness that would surely be breath-taking at greater intensity. As it is, artfully calibrated, I find it not only just bearable but distinctly erotic.

While the highly praised predecessor fragrance 'Maai' was an attempt to revive the great animalic chypres of the past in a new interpretation, 'Mem' is an attempt to provide a worthy successor to the old Fougère warhorses like 'Jicky', 'Pour un Homme de Caron', 'Zizanie', 'Brut', and 'Kouros'. And yes, this attempt has succeeded. 'Mem' is, with its many references to the past, a retro fragrance 'par excellence'. However, it is one that does not settle for being a well-made reincarnation of a well-known legend but one that develops its own character, a modern face. However, to call it a modern fragrance, as some do, I would not go that far. 'Jicky' (lavender-vanilla confection), 'Miel de Bois' (unsweetened, woody-aromatic honey), and 'Kouros' (the almost excessive use of the base 'Animalis') were too clearly its godfathers.

All in all, an extremely successful fragrance, but for my taste, a bit 'over the top'. Too much of a good thing in many respects. I wish it were smaller in dimension, more discreet, and yes, also less long-lasting. Sprayed on in the morning, the fragrance is still perceivable in the evening with such intensity that one wants to exclaim exhaustedly: Enough, it's over, that's enough!
But 'Mem' does not release the wearer, even if he has dosed the fragrance homeopathically, but slowly but surely overwhelms him.

Conclusion: great, but less would have truly been more.

Addendum, Sept. 2020:

'Mem' has since become one of my favorites. Probably due to my engagement with 'Maai', 'Douleur', and 'T-Rex', I have come to appreciate and love the Gardoni DNA. His fragrances are still not the kind you simply choose because you can't decide on another. Gardoni fragrances are strong characters that one must endure in phases once one has chosen them. It takes energy, and sometimes nerves, but it is very inspiring!