16
Top Review
Translated
Show original
Is there such a thing as positive penetration?!
Mr. Gardoni (architect and one-man-show called Bogue Profumo) is praised by Mr. Turin (scientist and controversial perfume critic). Now that my favourite shop in Cologne carries this brand I went for a walk with "Douleur!" for one day (on my arm, under my sweater...)
Let me put it this way: Strong tobacco, but without tobacco, but with a rose, but with a "different rose".
Rose scents are usually not very popular. They remind many people too much of the classic scents of their grandmothers. Therefore, for women often difficult and for men usually a no-go! What a pity actually.
The rose in "Douleur!" is not a classic rose - as soon as I sprayed it on, I noticed that it had an unusual penetrance, much brighter, less warm than I was used to from rose scents. And directly I had an association to another rose favorite: "Rose Alcane" from Æther. Here, however, there is no "real" rose, but rose oxide, a fragrance molecule that is one of the main components of real rose oil. The rose oxide lacks the depth and volume of a "real" rose. It is ethereal, almost slightly metallic, rather cool, as if you were blowing pulverized rose petals into the air and simply leaving out everything else like structure, stems, thorns (which are actually spines). I myself have always found fragrance molecules very exciting and inspiring.
While "Rose Alcane", however, consciously takes this approach and emphasizes the metallic-etheric character, Mr. Gardoni (to whom I am also referring here to the use of rose oxide) does something else: he weaves an extremely complex carpet of "background aromas" that give the ethereal rose an incredible warmth, depth and penetrance. Sometimes fresh, fruity notes flash out, sometimes sweet, almost powdery ones, and in the background there is always a skilfully dosed animalism playing along.
"Douleur!" drowns out everything - it's a loud, but by no means shrill scent. On my skin it lasted about 10 - 12 hours, but on my clothes it was still noticeable two days later. It is definitely unique, and in contrast to the other Bogue scents, it centres itself much more strongly on a central theme (rose) and is therefore, despite its complexity, not quite as versatile as e.g. "MEM" or "MAAI", in which IMHO "happens" much more. Nevertheless solid, multilayered and portable work. Chapeau!
Let me put it this way: Strong tobacco, but without tobacco, but with a rose, but with a "different rose".
Rose scents are usually not very popular. They remind many people too much of the classic scents of their grandmothers. Therefore, for women often difficult and for men usually a no-go! What a pity actually.
The rose in "Douleur!" is not a classic rose - as soon as I sprayed it on, I noticed that it had an unusual penetrance, much brighter, less warm than I was used to from rose scents. And directly I had an association to another rose favorite: "Rose Alcane" from Æther. Here, however, there is no "real" rose, but rose oxide, a fragrance molecule that is one of the main components of real rose oil. The rose oxide lacks the depth and volume of a "real" rose. It is ethereal, almost slightly metallic, rather cool, as if you were blowing pulverized rose petals into the air and simply leaving out everything else like structure, stems, thorns (which are actually spines). I myself have always found fragrance molecules very exciting and inspiring.
While "Rose Alcane", however, consciously takes this approach and emphasizes the metallic-etheric character, Mr. Gardoni (to whom I am also referring here to the use of rose oxide) does something else: he weaves an extremely complex carpet of "background aromas" that give the ethereal rose an incredible warmth, depth and penetrance. Sometimes fresh, fruity notes flash out, sometimes sweet, almost powdery ones, and in the background there is always a skilfully dosed animalism playing along.
"Douleur!" drowns out everything - it's a loud, but by no means shrill scent. On my skin it lasted about 10 - 12 hours, but on my clothes it was still noticeable two days later. It is definitely unique, and in contrast to the other Bogue scents, it centres itself much more strongly on a central theme (rose) and is therefore, despite its complexity, not quite as versatile as e.g. "MEM" or "MAAI", in which IMHO "happens" much more. Nevertheless solid, multilayered and portable work. Chapeau!
3 Comments
I love his last book and his taste;-)
I can imagine the smell. Maybe it's good for the fair?