3
Cloves and camphor
It cannot be denied that Bortnikoff offers decent perfumes each with unique and well-composed character. I have had a good time wearing a number of them, but somehow did not really click with any of them. With Amber Cologne and Musk Khabib Extrait de Parfum, I am still on the fence even after several revisits. Oud Monarch Extrait de Parfum has the most mesmerizing florals but lacks some lower-pitched notes. This one, however, is stuffed with low-pitch notes like balsams and resins. On top of that, the choice of florals is really nice. For a moment I thought this may become the one for me.
Right from the start, L'Heure Exquise brings a sense of darkness. Its opening is balsamic with a dry cocoa and a profound oud. The clove is strong but its sharp-spicy edge is somehow softened. The floral notes of champaca and jasmine emerge slow but steady. They are not as mesmerizing as the tropical flowers in Oud Monarch, but interesting the least. Bortnikoff did not hold back on the camphor - an acquired taste to some - which connects the woods and balsams nicely.
While the scent progresses the florals and cocoa fade first, leaving behind a blend of balsams, clove and camphor. That sense of darkness I had only gets stronger. In a warm kind of way, not smoky or anything goth. These notes, I found them so interesting at first but the longer they last the less they captivate me. Knowing that this drydown is going to last for several hours does not help at this point.
So that still leaves me without a Bortnikoff I call mine. I am off to another revisit of Musk Khabib. Maybe I can make up my mind this time.
Right from the start, L'Heure Exquise brings a sense of darkness. Its opening is balsamic with a dry cocoa and a profound oud. The clove is strong but its sharp-spicy edge is somehow softened. The floral notes of champaca and jasmine emerge slow but steady. They are not as mesmerizing as the tropical flowers in Oud Monarch, but interesting the least. Bortnikoff did not hold back on the camphor - an acquired taste to some - which connects the woods and balsams nicely.
While the scent progresses the florals and cocoa fade first, leaving behind a blend of balsams, clove and camphor. That sense of darkness I had only gets stronger. In a warm kind of way, not smoky or anything goth. These notes, I found them so interesting at first but the longer they last the less they captivate me. Knowing that this drydown is going to last for several hours does not help at this point.
So that still leaves me without a Bortnikoff I call mine. I am off to another revisit of Musk Khabib. Maybe I can make up my mind this time.