Cuir de Russie (Eau de Parfum) by Chanel

Cuir de Russie 2016 Eau de Parfum

MutMaat
01/21/2026 - 03:29 AM
8Scent 7Longevity 5Sillage 7Bottle 4Pricing

Chanel's Russian Affair

"Cuir de Russie" has the classic opening of bergamot zest with light floral backdrop of the orange flower. Almost immediately comes a leathery-tobacco note, and one knows that this is not "just another floral" perfume. Tobacco is dry, without fruit or oiliness, which harmonises it well with the leather and birch. The name is in the pudding, as they say - Russian Leather almost never goes without the sappy woodiness of birch.
Did you know that the Russians, and other slavic people, collect birch "juice" (sap to be precise) in the early spring? It has a light lemony-sweet taste and makes a most refreshing and enjoyable drink. The care is taken not to take too much from the tree, as otherwise it will not have enough for its own awakening and growth. But I digress.
The florals step in tentatively, ylang-ylang powders over the leather, giving it a suede-like nuance, and jasmine supports bergamot, becoming crisp and refreshing, giving a pleasing accord of the white jasmine, rather than the oriental one.
Projection is not the strongest, and I would advise a somewhat indulgent spray application, to achieve a reasonable and pleasing scent bubble. Sillage will not be loud either, but the staying power is good, once the fragrance has settled on one's skin.
As a whole, "Cuir de Russie" is a beautifully composed and blended fragrance, with the olfactory notes weaved together seamless and smooth; they may not necessarily keep to their places in the pyramid, but that does not spoil the experience or makes it lesser in anyway. It is a perfectly unisex scent, as rose and orange blossom are barely detectable, and jasmine and ylang-ylang are very well balanced by the leather-wood-tobacco trio, which also creates a very light smokiness, adding depth and versatility.
"Cuir de Russie" is perfect for any time of the year and any setting, as mentioned earlier it is on a light side when it comes to projection, so generous spraying and re-application are perfectly alright. It lasts well as a skin scent and with time deepens and expends into resinous tones (which can feel sweeter in summer). I most certainly prefer it to Chanel No 5 as a fragrance of a modern, unapologetically unique and confident personality, unbothered about the fleeting trends and "cores", and ensuring that they leave their mark in this world on their terms and in their own time.
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