Essence N°4: Oud Elie Saab 2014

I bought a full bottle from Jomashop without testing, because I couldn’t find a sample. Though it is a nice perfume, I don’t think I would have bought it if I had tested it properly. The price is moderate with 3.4 oz costing me $55. As the Essence line has been discontinued, the remaining bottles will disappear from the marketplace soon.

Elie Saab Essence line fragrances are simple, focusing on one dominant note. The perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian, accentuates this dominant note using a few other ancillary notes. If I may generalize based on the two Essence scents I own, this line thrives on the intensity of a single dominant note. Complexity and development are not part of the game.

The three notes in Essence No. 4 Oud are listed differently on different websites. Basenotes lists black pepper, oud and benzoin, while Parfumo lists saffron, oud and cinnamon. My nose says saffron, oud, and benzoin with a tiny hint of black pepper. I don’t detect any cinnamon. Unfortunately, I cannot find the official notes from the perfumer. Saffron, oud and benzoin are present in the opening, heart and base notes. There is no noticeable development. The longevity is very good as it lasts about 8-10 hours on my skin. But the sillage is mediocre, making this a good office perfume. It is a low intensity perfume as these notes do not typically project much. The bottle is attractive with its unique magnetic cap.

Essence No. 4 may be a good fit for those looking for a mild, inoffensive Western-style oud with saffron. There are no sweet or floral notes anywhere in this perfume. Though I do not layer perfumes, I can see why this could become a staple for those who do so.