Much truth and comprehensible observations have already been made about the fragrance, so let’s focus primarily on one detail that seems very important to me: the appearance of the rose.
But first, something general. The fragrance is extraordinarily noble right from the start. Quiet, woody oud with a hint of sourness, yet completely devoid of barnyard notes. Nevertheless, it is quite characterful; after a quarter of an hour, it even develops a bitter-stinging note - it smells like modeling clay. This is demanding and considerably more so than I had expected.
And now to the rose. It shines. Very specifically. Namely through clever restraint and a special twist in its appearance. In some fragrances where leather is mentioned, one gets the feeling that it primarily deals with a compressed, thickened, almost oily rose aroma that merely pretends to be leather. Here, however, it works the other way around and, moreover, taken a step further: The rose can be perceived flawlessly, at least partially, in a leathery, oud-supporting manner. In doing so, it somewhat lightens itself. As a result, I find the fragrance pleasantly oud-heavy, and the rose provides me with merely a dark-floral touch that just captures the bitterness a little. I really like that. So I can consider the rose restriction, which others have already desired in various ways, as fulfilled for myself.
Around noon, the lady can be a bit more. A delicate floral scent that, in this context, is again delightful. Soon, softly dusty amber joins in, and by evening, the rose becomes a bit fruity-candy-like, but always maintains its composure. That’s all from the supplementary corner; everything remains gentle and soft. In such an environment, the oud does not need to assert its presence through loudness but can - despite all the character strength that indeed hints at barnyard notes in the final stages - act nobly.
For more experienced noses, this is undoubtedly not new or exciting, especially not at the price point being asked. I can easily imagine someone in the refined atmosphere of a Zegna store trying on their suit one last time and quickly following up the few thousand euros for the fine piece with a relatively small amount for a fragrance that rounds off the overall appearance in a noble-dark manner. This is presumably what Indonesian oud is meant for, and it does that perfectly.
I like the oily consistency of the dark ouds. But it could have used a bit more barnyard notes. That probably wasn't an option, since Zegna customers stay far away from stables and cows...
You've almost outdone yourself here: what a tasteful comment on a rather unusual, elegant fragrance.
While the award may not be enough for a tailored suit, it's still worthy of a special trophy!
You've almost outdone yourself here: what a tasteful comment on a rather unusual, elegant fragrance. While this award may not be enough for a tailored suit, it's still worthy of a special trophy!
Very nice comment! I agree with everything you wrote, except for the perception of the oud. I can clearly smell the "barn scent" - it hits me as soon as I open the bottle. But I actually like it; otherwise, I wouldn't have made the investment... :o) ...
Interesting. I've often had the impression of smelling leather in rose scents too. I thought it was just me. I've had a very nice pair of sunglasses from Zegna for years, but that's about it ;-).
That sounds good. I've had it under my nose before but can hardly remember it, so I need to test it again. Even though I'll probably miss the animalic oud...
I just wonder how the chewing gum fits into the elegance, scratching my head. I'm used to that kind of thing with Tauer, but the good Andy usually doesn't aim for nobility with his fragrances.
While the award may not be enough for a tailored suit, it's still worthy of a special trophy!