In 1985, Estee Lauder launched their floral-radiant perfume "Beautiful," marketed at the time as a "wedding scent."
A masterpiece that fulfilled the fundamental condition set by the renowned perfumer Guy Robert: "Un parfum doit sentir bon."
In 2018, the new fragrance "Beautiful Belle" from Lauder apparently tried to connect to the great model from '85.
"Beautiful Belle" (I will refer to the scent as BB from here on) is, however, neither "belle" nor "beautiful."
This was not the work of a genius like Sophia Grosjman, but rather some fragrance technicians who must have toiled under the directives of the marketing department.
I imagine their considerations/
brainstorming session as follows:
"La vie est belle" is a mega-seller - stop - good people, we can also speak French, so why not use "Belle" for the name?
It might ring a bell with our customers...
...
Bride and flowers, always a popular choice - let's activate the positive associations that the classic "Beautiful" evokes in women aged 50 and above!
- we are focusing on "Modern reinterpretation"!
What does the chemistry toolbox offer us in this context?
- We will not construct a Chypre, as this genre does not appeal to younger consumers...
(And oakmoss has been "out" for a long time anyway.)
- Artificial fruit aromas in the top note sell well... always!!!
- Lychee! Splash!
- Then tuberose, orange blossom, now standard.
- Can we add a bit of sweetness?
(- Not too gourmet - it shouldn't be annoying or burdensome, as that doesn't fit a "bridal scent.")
Technician-Chemist 2 suggests "Marzipan - Musk."
(Although it smells more like fabric softener than real marzipan, the suppliers of aroma chemicals are currently selling this molecule very well.)
Ambroxan!!!!!
Ambroxan big time!
Of course, you need it for the fixative...
---- yes, almost perfect, we're getting there...
----
However, Aerin Lauder, who is presenting the new creation, still feels something is missing.
"The bride of 1885 was not as cool as the model who is supposed to represent it in 2018."
Does the scent need a little "edgy touch"?
- Suede. Suede, the little contrast to the floral program, okay, let's indulge... quite bold, isn't it?
"But please not too much."
----
What has emerged is a mainstream, completely unremarkable daytime scent with a shocking overdose of Ambroxan and a huge disappointment potential.
Estee Lauder!
For me, it used to be a brand whose fragrances were milestones in perfume history.
Youth Dew! Alliage! White Linen!
You name it...
But in 2018? BB. Beh, Beh.
Meh, Meh.
(On Fragrantica, a perceptive user from the USA wrote: "It's going to flop, will definitely end up at Tkmaxx."
She was right. It's already there. Went quickly. Currently €32 in Cologne).
After reading the pyramid, I was also afraid it wouldn't be for me or anyone else. Not even worth testing! But your amazing stories are always worth a try! Thank you for the entertainment. Fun trophy to you!
I'm afraid even €32 is too much for me. Lauder used to be a way of life for me - those days are long gone. Spellbound, Knowings, Youth Dew, etc. The grandkids just can't compete.
Really quite disappointing... Considering the amazing fragrances that were once released under the Estée Lauder name. Great to read something from you again!
Still, here's a trophy for your collection.