
Bertel
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Bertel
Top Review
17
Balsamic-Spicy Dimensions
With "Panache," we have finally arrived at abstraction, in the loftiness and refined heights of spirited discourse, it seems. Cyrano de Bergerac, the great noble character known to us from Edmond Rostand's play of the same name, is evoked for this fragrance, as "Panache" is the last word he speaks in the final act, describing that central quality which neither death nor condemnation can take from him, which defines his life and uniqueness, resonating within us and guiding us. Oh dear, and this as the guiding idea of a fragrance...
The scent wants nothing to do with all this fuss; it is a very pleasant, broad, spicy-balsamic accord that opens quite agreeably with aromatic delicate pink pepper combined with the "Ambrette seeds" mentioned here (these are simply the seeds of the musk mallow, the Abelmoschus or musk seeds that reliably provide the musk component as a plant-based substitute), before the mentioned rum note, which is well and deliciously recognizable, joins in to complete a very appealing opening accord. I can faintly sense bergamot, perhaps a bit of magnolia, but that would be more of a guess.
Clearly, towards the heart, a very elegant vetiver eventually stands before us, slightly transcendent over its still balsamic-spicy base, in which the spiciness of cardamom can now be discerned, alongside other sophisticated and tightly woven notes. Contrary to the current tendency to place clearly recognizable notes side by side, which the discerning perfumer can then neatly identify and mentally arrange, Yann Vasnier has created here (as already hinted at in "Mythique") shifting, movable, flowing, and evolving aromatic dimensions in which the individual components dissolve, contributing more of their character traits to a whole and merging rather than standing separately beside each other. DelRae's pyramids list the most extravagant and remote rare components, but this plays, as it did in the golden vintage era, hardly any role at the heart of the fragrance and in its development; here we are caught and reliably supported by balsamic-spicy formations, soft and round, that cradle us comfortably and carry us attentively, yet in their woven density and masterful texture, they evade a dissecting analysis, and that is a good thing.
An extremely well-constructed, masterfully intertwined, highly refined tapestry of wonderfully harmonized and tightly and seamlessly interwoven balsamic-spicy components. Forget Cyrano, this conceptually and craftily stunning fragrance does not need such nonsense.
The scent wants nothing to do with all this fuss; it is a very pleasant, broad, spicy-balsamic accord that opens quite agreeably with aromatic delicate pink pepper combined with the "Ambrette seeds" mentioned here (these are simply the seeds of the musk mallow, the Abelmoschus or musk seeds that reliably provide the musk component as a plant-based substitute), before the mentioned rum note, which is well and deliciously recognizable, joins in to complete a very appealing opening accord. I can faintly sense bergamot, perhaps a bit of magnolia, but that would be more of a guess.
Clearly, towards the heart, a very elegant vetiver eventually stands before us, slightly transcendent over its still balsamic-spicy base, in which the spiciness of cardamom can now be discerned, alongside other sophisticated and tightly woven notes. Contrary to the current tendency to place clearly recognizable notes side by side, which the discerning perfumer can then neatly identify and mentally arrange, Yann Vasnier has created here (as already hinted at in "Mythique") shifting, movable, flowing, and evolving aromatic dimensions in which the individual components dissolve, contributing more of their character traits to a whole and merging rather than standing separately beside each other. DelRae's pyramids list the most extravagant and remote rare components, but this plays, as it did in the golden vintage era, hardly any role at the heart of the fragrance and in its development; here we are caught and reliably supported by balsamic-spicy formations, soft and round, that cradle us comfortably and carry us attentively, yet in their woven density and masterful texture, they evade a dissecting analysis, and that is a good thing.
An extremely well-constructed, masterfully intertwined, highly refined tapestry of wonderfully harmonized and tightly and seamlessly interwoven balsamic-spicy components. Forget Cyrano, this conceptually and craftily stunning fragrance does not need such nonsense.
5 Comments



Top Notes
Ambrette seed absolute
Italian bergamot Orpur®
Magnolia Orpur®
Pink pepper Orpur®
Rum
Zentvukrim
Heart Notes
Atlas cedar Orpur®
Cardamom absolute
Egyptian geranium Orpur®
Haitian vetiver
Honeysuckle
Jasmine sambac absolute
Orris butter
Ylang-ylang Orpur®
Base Notes
Amber
Cosmone
Somalian frankincense Orpur®
White honey

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