
Lirael
2
A near-perfect, humble little mint
Mint may not be a the most challenging note to wear per se, but centering a perfume around it presents a challenge that many accomplished perfumers have not been able to meet successfully.
Since mint works as a top note that comes on strong and dies quickly, I find that most mint scents leave me with a sharp mint blast that rolls into side notes that were supposed to act in service to it, but don't hold up on their own. Tons of mint fragrances get weird or weak over time, and I can only think of a handful (max) that have not been conquered by one of the following problems:
-Weak and watery
-Sharp and astringent
-Smells overwhelmingly like Toothpaste, a Mojito, or Vanilla Tic Tacs
-An over reliance on vanilla, woods or spice to anchor and smooth it out
La Themis is a humble scent. Its aim appears to be solving the problems of mint, which I think it does beautifully by finding depth and lasting power within the note itself.
This is a deep green mint, well-supported by wintergreen and eucalyptus. You get the soft fuzzy parts as well as the snap when you break open or rub the leaf between your fingers. The juicy green stem note adds a non-minty support beam to which the menthol can cling without blasting any chewing gum notes. The creamy, spicy facets of the tonka are a great solution to avoid too much vanilla while keeping things smooth and warm at the base.
It's suitable for all seasons and great for daily wear. Points off are for the late dry down, which can get a bit play-doh-esque. There is also not a ton of sillage or lasting power, but since these oils are so fairly priced I don't see a huge drawback with that.
For context and since fragrance is so subjective, here are some other successful (imo) mint frags besides La Themis I've considered FullSize-worthy (obviously I haven't tried every mint scent ever so there are probably others out there that I would enjoy):
-Fiele Fragrances, Mentha - My other favorite mint. Fantastic, but has so much else going on that it's more of a creamy woods citrus lifted by mint. I can however, still smell the mint after 6 hours which is impressive.
-Frederic Malle, Geranium Pour Monsieur - Sharp but balanced. Truly mint centered, but very masculine so I can't really pull it off.
-Fantome, Morozko - Birch adds a wonderfully wintery, enchanting facet that makes the mint pop in a novel way. However the scent is somewhat fleeting and the mint itself is more peppermint oily and not particularly deep in character.