Smoke by Goti Essenze
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8.0 / 10 56 Ratings
A popular perfume by Goti Essenze for women and men, released in 2013. The scent is fruity-smoky. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Fruity
Smoky
Woody
Resinous
Spicy

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
PomegranatePomegranate CedarCedar
Heart Notes Heart Notes
GingerGinger
Base Notes Base Notes
FrankincenseFrankincense EbonyEbony ResinsResins
Ratings
Scent
8.056 Ratings
Longevity
8.145 Ratings
Sillage
7.447 Ratings
Bottle
8.143 Ratings
Submitted by DemonHead, last update on 29.04.2023.

Reviews

5 in-depth fragrance descriptions
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
pudelbonzo

689 Reviews
Translated Show original Show translation
pudelbonzo
pudelbonzo
Helpful Review 11  
my first cigarette
I am a smoker, and like the taste of tobacco and the smell of smoke.

However, as a teenager I avoided the "smoking goods" because I found the ambitious smoking of my friends and dinnen silly.
Laughably catch one at the school entrance right away.
I didn't want to get involved.

But I always had to serve as a cigarette store because my parents didn't visit me.

So I once carried around a box of Reval without it, which belonged to my girlfriend.
The open box smelled good in my denim jacket and I wondered what such a Ziggi would taste like.
Try makes wise - my ma said laconically.
And the first train tasted amazingly good.
It reminded me of freshly baked bread with crust.

So smoking wasn't just an empty fuss, it was indeed a pleasure.
Smoke is also a delightful fragrance.

One afternoon in Daddy's stylish office.
Classic ebony furniture, glossy oiled, cedar coat hangers - and the festive scent of his long dark cigars.
The fruit rises from the fruit bowl - and the newspaper fragrance conveys the stories from the world.
You talk, you keep quiet - everything goes without saying.
Calm cosiness germinates in me - and I am reluctant to leave this refuge.

Smoke skilfully transports this image of style and security.

What I have to say takes a cigarette...

4 Comments
10
Bottle
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
8
Scent
DemonHead

18 Reviews
DemonHead
DemonHead
Helpful Review 6  
A unique change of tact on the "Smoke" theme
To date, Riccardo Goti is a name largely absent from the mind of many a perfumisto. After studying design at the State Institute of Art in Firenze, Goti first stepped into the limelight with his unique fashions and use of unorthodox materials; mixing fabric with cut leather and metal hardware. With a more recent shift in focus towards jewellery design, Goti found his fame in the accessories market... his universe still utilizing raw leathers, tarnished metals, semi-polished stones and pliable materials like tin. In 2008, motivated by a desire to create unique, multi-faceted, multi-layered perfumes to accompany his accessories Goti recruited one of the oldest cosmetics manufacturers / pharmacies in the world - Santa Maria Novella. Together, they produced three GOTI ESSENZE fragrances composed of wholly natural ingredients: Black, White and Earth. Their very select distribution rendered them virtually invisible on the radars of devout perfumisti, but they created a distinct 'blip' on the screen of the fashionisti that had followed Goti's journey from the very beginning.

In 2013, Riccardo Goti has recently added two new scents to his portfolio: Gray and Smoke. But before I go on, I feel it is worth noting that the previously-launched trio have been completely reformulated to coincide with the 2013 new product launch and re-packaging of the brand. (There is no indication given as to why the previous scents are now largely unrecognisable today, but I have discovered that Santa Maria Novella are no longer producing the Goti Essences. That assignment has now been turned over to Laboratorio Therapeutico M.R., a Florentine pharmaceutical / neutroceutical firm founded in 1930, which - since the early 80's - has diversified its business by creating cosmetics and food supplements). Whilst this might have had something of an impact on the first three fragrances, we can gladly approach Gray and Smoke as Goti Essenze newcomers and take them at face value. In this blog piece I will be turning my attention to Smoke, which in my eyes, is the more interesting of the pair.

Smoke – contrary to that which its name might suggest – is not a run-of-the-mill olfactory study of charred woods and ashen embers that we perfume lovers have seen time and again. In fact, it is quite the opposite. Smoke – at least by the hand of Goti - feels more fluid, colourful, and transparent. Absent are the dark plumes of oud, birch tar and black tea that one might expect of such a scent, and in their place, a fascinating arrangement of notes that lend a curious translucency. A jewel-coloured opening of pomegranate startles with its bittersweet piquancy. This purple-red fire dances on a soft bed of cedar... a scattering of fragrant woodchips that provide a sense of combustable warmth. Moments into it's flight, there is a slightly bewildering camphorous quality that hints at the presence of blue eucalyptus or green menthol, but no such elements exist. I grasp for answers, only to realise I've discovered a penetrating yellow note of zesty ginger pooling below the surface. This ginger imbues the scent from top to bottom with an almost petroleum-like quality... it is sharp, aqueous and feels somewhat volatile and incendiary.

The foundation upon which Smoke was built includes ebony, incense and resins. The citric-orange presence of frankincense is very clear in this composition and partners well with the ginger, only amplifying it's abundance. It adds colour and dimension and lingers long into the drydown.

Riccardo Goti's interpretation of Smoke makes for an imaginative change of tact as far as smoke-themed perfumes are concerned. It feels infinitely more modern and avant garde than the majority of those that have gone before it. This genderless scent will captivate and mystify many with it's vivid colour and unique composition.

The new Goti Essences now appear in stunning, lightweight 50ml and 100ml polished metal flacons. The smaller of the two is perfect for travel, and the luxurious 100ml comes with a detachable leather bulb atomiser. A small screw cap and metal cover for the flacon are included with the larger size. Both are packaged in exquisite sturdy black boxes with tooled leather buckles.
Very 'Goti' indeed.
2 Comments
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Novalis

43 Reviews
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Novalis
Novalis
4  
...something else...
To make a long story short.
I would not buy it, because I would quickly Sattriechen, too special and yet too sour,
yet this fragrance stands out in the truest sense of the word.
Pomegranate, ginger, incense, I take that was a full pot.
Sexy, different, pushy but still elegantly jumping back again.
Durability: Loose 8 hours and more.
Sillage: Oh yes and not too short.
Flacon: But hello, a clear "very good".

Actually, I always have the opinion: "Schuster stick to your last", but the trend is that pen manufacturers make watches, fashion labels make perfumes and and and and... Since they have the necessary change to hire a good perfumer, often something of high quality and good comes around, like with this traditional Italian luxury leather brand.

However, I still prefer the traditional, old, history-laden fragrance houses of this world or small unknown houses, whose focus is exclusively on fragrances
1 Comment
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
1  
Unimpressive but good
Smoke by Goti smells to me basically like Comme des Garçons Kyoto with a synthetic boozy-resinous note and something slightly fruity enhancing the warmer and sweeter side of (synthetic) incense. Balsamic and mentholated, smoky and sweetly warm, with a decidedly “aloof” and contemporary vibe as you may guess by the packaging. And a really nice, subtle yet surprisingly true to life and “living” woody accord. Really easy to like and wear... even too much, maybe; for this price and this market positioning I would personally expect something more than such a “friendly”, and honestly not that impressive sweet-minty incense. I mean: it smells great, refined and stylish, but also a bit redundant among the plethora of similar, and often cheaper offerings - and in my opinion a bit unnecessarily hipster too (this including the packaging and the retail channels they chose for distributing this – again, just a personal opinion regarding expectations vs. reality). The juice per se is highly enjoyable, bracing and versatile, with also a slight and I guess involuntary connection to Gucci Rush Men on the drydown – so yes, I would surely grab it if I found a half-priced bottle; it is just something a bit less “unique” and interesting than it may seem at first.

6,5-7/10
0 Comments
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Taskphorce

55 Reviews
Taskphorce
Taskphorce
0  
Smoke/No Smoke?
Goti Smoke

Ironically, there is little to no “smoke” here (in my opinion)....So if you are searching for a scent like Naomi Goodsir Bois d’ Ascese, keep looking. This is a stunning blend of pomegranate, cedar, resin, frankincense, and ginger supported by ebony wood. The pomegranate used here produces a tangy, bitter-sweet aroma reminiscent of the beginning phases of fermenting fruit and it pairs perfectly with the zingy, sharp ginger. They come together producing a chilly spicy effect reminiscent of scents like Blue Encens by Comme des Garcons. The fresh spicy effect maintains consistency throughout the dry down and eventually gives way to a polished-dark woody base. The performance could be a little better but it’s not terrible. In other words, it’s safe to be trigger happy with Goti Smoke without having an obnoxious scent cloud around you. 9/10
0 Comments

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