8
Helpful Review
The ideal cologne !
Guerlain is no longer the same house that it once was. Since 94, when the brand was acquired by LVMH, the fragrances started to take a different direction.
Truth to be told, they launched several great fragrances since that time (the Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Herba Fresca, the fantastic L'Instant de Guerlain or even Cuir Beluga) but the majority of their fragrances were just mass market impulses.
Since Jean Paul Guerlain left the house in 2010, and choose Thierry Wasser to replace him, Wasser is been working hard to keep the heritage of the brand alive and to bring some good ideas to the table. The Les Absolu D'Orient line is decent (Ambre Eternel is absolutely great and my favorite, by far) and Mon Guerlain is doing well but they needed a new masculine line. L'Homme ideal (2014).
The concept was to create a sweet-gourmand scent with a everlasting freshness, and the result was quite convincing. I like the tonka-guerlinade-amaretto accord of the fragrance but it lacks something in the overall idea. That's when the Cologne flanker appears.
This one took the original tonka-amaretto accord and added a juicy grapefruit note which lasts the entire lifetime of the fragrance. Not a usual thing. The beauty of this fragrance, at least for me, is that is a citric fragrance that actually lasts with the citric being in the front during the lifetime. Longlasting, super fresh and very alluring and even, should I say, sexy!
The result is quite fascinating. A grapefruit with an almond-ish impression and a vetiver-musk finale. Thierry Wasser improved the DNA of the original idea and he never reached the right tune again with the rest of the line. Unfortunately, and i don't know why, they discontinued this fragrance and replaced it with Cool, which is supposedly a minty version but fails completely.
The EDP is the one that is talked about but I never cared much. Basically a cherry-tonka version of the original. Good but not so masterfully done as the Cologne version.
Make me a favor and pick up a bottle (or two) of this fragrance because you will miss it when it disappear completely.
4/5
Truth to be told, they launched several great fragrances since that time (the Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Herba Fresca, the fantastic L'Instant de Guerlain or even Cuir Beluga) but the majority of their fragrances were just mass market impulses.
Since Jean Paul Guerlain left the house in 2010, and choose Thierry Wasser to replace him, Wasser is been working hard to keep the heritage of the brand alive and to bring some good ideas to the table. The Les Absolu D'Orient line is decent (Ambre Eternel is absolutely great and my favorite, by far) and Mon Guerlain is doing well but they needed a new masculine line. L'Homme ideal (2014).
The concept was to create a sweet-gourmand scent with a everlasting freshness, and the result was quite convincing. I like the tonka-guerlinade-amaretto accord of the fragrance but it lacks something in the overall idea. That's when the Cologne flanker appears.
This one took the original tonka-amaretto accord and added a juicy grapefruit note which lasts the entire lifetime of the fragrance. Not a usual thing. The beauty of this fragrance, at least for me, is that is a citric fragrance that actually lasts with the citric being in the front during the lifetime. Longlasting, super fresh and very alluring and even, should I say, sexy!
The result is quite fascinating. A grapefruit with an almond-ish impression and a vetiver-musk finale. Thierry Wasser improved the DNA of the original idea and he never reached the right tune again with the rest of the line. Unfortunately, and i don't know why, they discontinued this fragrance and replaced it with Cool, which is supposedly a minty version but fails completely.
The EDP is the one that is talked about but I never cared much. Basically a cherry-tonka version of the original. Good but not so masterfully done as the Cologne version.
Make me a favor and pick up a bottle (or two) of this fragrance because you will miss it when it disappear completely.
4/5
1 Comment
ROBERTOB 4 years ago
1
Another great review. Thanks for sharing