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4 reformulations, 4 scents?
Since 1959 there is this great fragrance and I have tested and analyzed the last 4 reformulations for me. The result may help you to identify the different versions and to classify them better:
1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)
Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close
2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other
3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer
4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)
Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again
Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.
I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)
1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)
Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close
2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other
3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer
4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)
Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again
Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.
I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)
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