31
Top Review
Translated
Show original
4 reformulations, 4 scents?
Since 1959 there is this great fragrance and I have tested and analyzed the last 4 reformulations for me. The result may help you to identify the different versions and to classify them better:
1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)
Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close
2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other
3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer
4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)
Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again
Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.
I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)
1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)
Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close
2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other
3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)
Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer
4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)
Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again
Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.
I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)
3 Comments
Yerseke 4 years ago
1
Translated Show original
Show translation
Also have all these versions of my signature scent. Your description fits very well, thank you for that. I would add that a distinct walnut note can be perceived in the drydown of all of them, especially in the oldest. This one also has hints of cognac and beeswax for me. I suspect a kind of "old bottle effect", as it also occurs in single malt whisky.
Comed 6 years ago
Translated Show original
Show translation
Thank you for the hint Ronin. Fits also to the "unspectacular top note". If you want to afford the vintage version, you should still know: more tobacco or tobacco-like things. ;)
Ronin 6 years ago
Translated Show original
Show translation
Storage can cause some citric top notes to evaporate and new notes appear due to aging, which are often reminiscent of tobacco. Your description above would also fit completely to a perfume that always smelled exactly the same after production and was only stored for different lengths of time. Which, of course, does not mean that the fragrance was not reformulated - it was. Of course, with every new vetiver harvest.