Vetiver 1959 Eau de Toilette

Vetiver (Eau de Toilette) by Guerlain
Bottle Design Robert Granai
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7.9 / 10 1019 Ratings
Vetiver (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Guerlain for men and was released in 1959. The scent is green-spicy. It is still in production. Pronunciation
Goes well with Green Vetiver
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Main accords

Green
Spicy
Woody
Fresh
Citrus

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
BergamotBergamot LemonLemon OrangeOrange
Heart Notes Heart Notes
NutmegNutmeg PepperPepper
Base Notes Base Notes
VetiverVetiver TobaccoTobacco Tonka beanTonka bean

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.91019 Ratings
Longevity
7.6832 Ratings
Sillage
7.0808 Ratings
Bottle
7.5792 Ratings
Value for money
7.9294 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 12.02.2024.

Reviews

43 in-depth fragrance descriptions
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Scent
Can777

120 Reviews
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Can777
Can777
Top Review 72  
Le coeur vert/The green heart
Without question! I love both versions of vetiver, but I only wear the old formulation. Why is this so? Let's put it this way! Let's imagine that both versions are pictures of the same motif. One is painted in oil. You can see the traces of the brush on the canvas. You can feel the grooves and bumps as you glide your fingertips over them. You can see different warm light refractions and reflections on the surface when you move them around the oil painting. The other picture identical to the motif is a digital art print. It is printed on paper. The surface is clean, smooth and flawless. No ridges or bumps. There are no lows and highs. The reflections it throws back are distorted and blinding. It looks perfect, but is very cool and static! Personally I would prefer the oil painting. It's similar with vetiver in the old formulation!

I wore my first vetiver at twenty-one. This is now thirty years ago. I have been looking for a long time to get a bottle that is as old as possible and if possible goes back in time. And it still exists! However, I was more than lucky to get one of the really, really old bottles that were even sold with propellant for a short period. This one seems to be from the 70's in the early 80's. It is perfectly preserved both externally and internally. This version and formulation is virtually unchanged and unaltered. It is so to speak the quintessence of the old vetiver and still the old handwriting of Jean-Paul Guerlain!

Vetiver Vintage
If you spray the old formulation of vetiver on the skin, it is nothing charming, pleasing and gentle. The perfume is an elemental force and nothing for delicate minds and noses at first. It's as if all aromas and fragrances hit you in a bundle. Powerful, wild and quite unbridled. In a fraction of a second you can recognize the bergamot and citric, which quickly disappears. Immediately a green-brown, rich and almost fleshy tobacco is very present. Ripe and not yet harvested. A sultry, earthy and sweaty note is mixed with the oil of the gostus root. Accompanied by a slightly pungent and subliminal civet note. These two notes have completely disappeared in the new formulation. They were never officially mentioned in the fragrance pyramid, but were always present in minimal doses. By the way! Spicy, hot and crushed pepper and vetiver are also instantly recognizable. After about five minutes this tornado of aromas subsides and the fragrance calms down. It seems to disintegrate into its components and dissolve, which is deceptive and not the case. It just rearranges itself and comes up again. All the notes come together in perfection and harmony. Earthy and spicy nutmeg work their way up and the probably unique wild-green and smoky vetiver that gave it its name. After about a quarter of an hour, the fragrance no longer seems to be on the skin, but to float above it like a second transparent skin. Lightweight, but incredibly dense. The fragrance has something pulsating in its aura and charisma that is like a heartbeat. If you are calm and relaxed it is also. If you get hot, the perfume radiates immensely and pushes forward. Something that personally likes very much! In contrast to the new formulation, which tends to remain fresh and spicy, the old formulation has a slightly subliminal, warm, sweaty and human undertone with much more depth and warmth. The stronger concentration and density is already optically recognizable. If you place both versions next to each other, you can see that the older version looks like golden yellow camomile tea that has been drawn too long and the newer version looks like tender green, watered down wheatgrass juice. Concerning the shelf life, the old vetiver is far superior to the newer one. The shelf life is twelve to sixteen hours and even longer. On clothes even days. It's almost never completely gone!
Conclusion
Like I said. Both versions have their advantages, which are reflected not only in the composition but also in the price. An old version sometimes costs much more than a new version. But it is worth it if you want to have the old spirit of Jean-Paul Guerlain and his vetiver around you. A perfume that spreads an almost impudent and provocative, masculine and wild elegance. And this for sixty-one years now. You should only decide which version you want. The smooth, light and soft version or the rough, heavier and more angular version with much more depth. Each has its lovers and advantages. And to come back to my introduction...

I prefer the oil painting,... still!
47 Comments
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Kovex

13 Reviews
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Kovex
Kovex
Top Review 41  
Back to the roots or how it all began
At the beginning of my perfume days, when I was still unregistered and sneaking around here, I was drawing my perfume samples for lack of knowledge of a souk, mostly on online platforms. This led to the fact that I came ignorant partly at Vintage samples (and these naturally also used up), for which or other lovers would surely give a fingertip. Okay, sei´s drum. It served the olfactory expansion of my consciousness, so all is well.

Like many newcomers, the Top100 was my first orientation aid. I quickly realized that Guerlain was occupying a special position here. Vetiver was completely unknown to me and my curiosity was aroused all the more because this scent of vetiver grass roots had never consciously entered my nose
When I opened the cap on the vintage mini bottle, I didn't know that this was going to be the beginning of a great passion for fragrance. It was my first actively worried rehearsal.

*

When the 21 year old Jean-Paul Guerlain set off for his uncle's company on a spring morning in 1958, he had no idea that he would receive the order to achieve great things.

His uncle Jean-Pierre Guerlain, who ran the company together with his brother Jacques, watched with suspicion as Carven's vetiver fragrance, launched in 1957, became increasingly popular. The fact that Guerlain had not created an independent men's fragrance since the appearance of Mouchoir de Monsieur in 1904 prompted him to commission his nephew to modernize the fragrance palette
Inspired by Carven's Vetiver, Jean-Paul wanted to create the smell of a gardener. Tobacco and grass should be the central scents. He was symbolically inspired by the Gitanes-smoking gardener of a friendly family.

*

Carefully and curiously I probably trickled the original version of Vetiver on the back of my hand. The prelude was slightly aldehydic. It reminded of the cool, hazy freshness of a foggy morning in the country. The way in which mandarin, coriander, nutmeg and wood played a green-fresh and at the same time hoarse cello based on the smoky vetiver grass root was unique. Later, Jean-Paul created a salty-ashy note, unique at the time, which smelled golden and clear like semi-dried tobacco leaves.

*

When Jacques, who was still chief perfumer at the time, smelled his nephew's creation for the first time, he got goose bumps, so authentic was the gardener's theme. When he told the then Guerlain spokesman - a certain Roja Dove - about it, it was decided, contrary to the original plan, not only to expel Vetiver in South America, where Vetiver grass had been known since 1840 and was used in many ways.

From unconfirmed sources (Long live the legend!) it emerges that Vetiver went through three reformulations. Launched in 1988, the version is still considered today by connoisseurs to be the roundest and greenest in the best sense of the word (whereby vetiver oil smells smoky rather than leafy green). It unfolded a rough, wind-blown, natural warmth from dried grass and moist roots that clung to a minimal soapiness.

The version from 2000 had a brighter and friendlier appearance with intensified citrus fruits and tree moss, as a replacement for the tender oak moss, which fell victim to the allergen regulation. However, this version was gratefully accepted by all those who had their difficulties with the typical soapiness of many scents of bygone times.

The currently available version (the one with the green wooden lid) has all potentially allergenic ingredients expelled. Rumour has it that the change to the current version was accompanied by the unification of flacons in 2016.

Here fresh, green-juicy vetiver has the sceptre in its hand from the very beginning. Citrus notes, as spicy and fresh as a sunny spring morning after a rainy night. The warming morning sun is reflected in the dew drops on the meadow. The grass on the damp-steamy ground stretches towards the sun with lust. While over time nutmeg and pepper contribute a little seriousness, the fragrance always appears clean, serious and strikingly masculine.
While many vetiver fragrances focus on the smoky, spicy notes, which can sometimes be quite harsh, Guerlain has succeeded in giving the vetiver a green lightness and freshness that make it perfect for the warmer days - and perhaps for this very reason.

Even if Jean-Paul sometimes claims today that the formulation is still the same as it was then, I take note with a wink of the eye and am pleased that this grandiose classic has been very successfully reformulated into the present day. I would also like to recommend it to younger people, who want to counter the current fragrance taste. From my point of view, he may have completely discarded associated opaduft attitudes.

After the test of my vintage rehearsal, I first approached the subject via Guerlain's "Vetiver Extreme" (which is supposed to appeal to a younger clientele). All the more reason for me to be happy to be at the original today.

21 Comments
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Tofuwachtel

23 Reviews
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Tofuwachtel
Tofuwachtel
Top Review 51  
What is time
When we met you were
Sparkling and charming

You seemed
Fresh and reliable

You had
Pepper and wit

You loved
Earth and herb

You wore
Suit and jeans

You were
Spice and life

You liked
Smoke and wood

You showed
Style and nonchalance

You knew
Wagner and Wacken

We have grown older
But nothing has changed
...
35 Comments
9
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7
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8.5
Scent
Konsalik

81 Reviews
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Konsalik
Konsalik
Top Review 33  
Context and framing
My relationship with Vetiver is ambiguous. Since my (still not quite mastered) primary experience with Lalique's "Encre Noire" it's hard for me to face dominant vetiver unbiasedly and quickly the inner flap closes on which it says: "Vetiver turns a perfume into a smell". And so, for months now, Guerlain's top classic from 1959 has been standing almost untouched on the shelf in his labeled pocket sprayer, since the first smell test seemed to confirm my conditioned prejudice: "Vetiver EdT" did not smell to me, it rather smelled - albeit not unpleasant. But just cold, without history and purpose; the usual, one-dimensional pencil lead. How much more interesting was "Timbuktu" by L'Artisan Parfumeur...

A few months later I (not for the first time, mea culpa) go with my young passion to one of my friends unasked on the biscuit. Spray, spray. Verriech, verriech. Nothing really gets through to him until it comes to Guerlain's Vetiver. All of a sudden, the olfactory chisel blow sits there and already it breaks out of him: the brook behind the clubhouse where he played as a child. The moss, the stones: deluxe head cinema. Have-must-Litany. Even though this is a very biographical association that I naturally could not comprehend, it nevertheless led me to give the fragrance another chance and lo and behold: it is no longer so inaccessible. The feeling of wearing a little artistically presented "primary scent" on the skin fades away. Something like joy comes up!

The scent stays cool and reserved, yes. But not rejectingly indifferent like a Bauhaus model housing estate, but rather imposing respect like a classicist theatre building: Primarily monochrome, too, but peppered with details that give the whole context and form; the pure, brutalistic "surface" is avoided. After the citric prelude has faded away, one can clearly feel the pepper, which has been dosed with verve. In addition, there is a spice, of which I cannot say exactly whether it comes from listed tobacco or from nutmeg. Regardless: with just a few simple steps, the Vetiver is given a frame that really turns it into a perfume. The snobbish coolness becomes an aristocratic distance that creates space and commitment. Such a thing can be called a gentleman's fragrance, if I may be allowed to use this worn catchword.
10 Comments
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Comed

6 Reviews
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Comed
Comed
Top Review 30  
4 reformulations, 4 scents?
Since 1959 there is this great fragrance and I have tested and analyzed the last 4 reformulations for me. The result may help you to identify the different versions and to classify them better:

1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)

Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close

2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other

3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer

4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)

Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again

Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.

I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)
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19 short views on the fragrance
HugoMontezHugoMontez 3 years ago
8
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7
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8
Longevity
10
Scent
Timeless masculine. A citrus blast in the opening, a green vetiver and a touch of tobacco in the drydown. 5/5
0 Comments
ElysiumElysium 6 years ago
10
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7
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7
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10
Scent
One of the most root, smoky, elegant, and classy interpretation of the wondrous and versatile vetiver. Flawless on a calescent summer night!
1 Comment
JoaoMartinsJoaoMartins 5 years ago
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7
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8
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8.5
Scent
This baby right here put Grey Vetiver outside of my fragrance game. Absolute masterpiece. Clean, classy and charming with a creamy base.
0 Comments
BertolucciKBertolucciK 2 years ago
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Vetiver with the classic Guerlain touch. The scent is green, spicy, earthy, with a fresh citrusy opening and a slightly woody base.
0 Comments
GRGGRG 7 months ago
guerlain vetiver is Mr. vetiver with a capital V. Vintage formulations are great. fresh, sparkling. it is a marvel for the sense of smell
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