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Top Review
Once again a chance for Oud in a fragrance - and then an AA? We shall see.
Oud in the base of an Aqua Allegoria fragrance sounds to me like "neither fish nor fowl." Too fresh-spicy for an oriental and too voluminous and demanding for a summery light AA fragrance. To make matters worse, Oud is one of my nemeses, as none of the versions of this note have truly impressed me so far, so I usually flinch a bit when I find it in a pyramid. Especially when it appears prominently in the name of a perfume. I must admit, however, that the Aqua Allegoria line doesn't really entice me anymore, as I have lost the common thread that characterized the fragrances in the past. Especially when the "Forte flankers" hit the market, I dismissed the theme as unimportant for the time being.
So now AA, forte, and also Oud - can this work, or should it be discarded...?
Even though I have expressed several times elsewhere that I have distanced myself from Guerlain, a test still tempts me now and then, especially when I find something in the souk.
I will try to block out everything around it and focus solely on the scent on my skin. And lo and behold - it actually works. The top note, where the mandarin and the rather green-citrusy yuzu clearly dominate, has a true Aqua Allegoria character: expressive, cool, and energetic. I can't detect a break to the heart note, but it is true that the fragrance drifts into a familiar neroli aroma, which some members of the perfume community apparently take issue with. I can't understand that, because I like it. Amber gives warmth to the neroli and simultaneously leads into a base that I find pleasant. It may be synthetic - why not. But this somewhat austere finish, which is surprisingly long-lasting on my skin, pleases me immensely. Oud is, at least for me, well wrapped between cedar and vetiver and only acts in the background - so to speak as a scent enhancer, certainly not as the theme it is marketed as in the name of the perfume. So, good news for those who avoid Oud like the devil avoids holy water. I actually belong to that group too. I'm also not sure if Guerlain did the fragrance a favor by presenting Oud so prominently in the name. Mentioning the note in the pyramid would probably have sufficed and would not have polarized so much.
Since the season is not aimed at acquiring a new Aqua Allegoria fragrance for the fragrance cabinet, I will probably settle for a decant for now, and who knows, spring will surely come again. Because even though I don't perceive the fragrance as lightweight, I do prefer other calibers for autumn and winter.
So now AA, forte, and also Oud - can this work, or should it be discarded...?
Even though I have expressed several times elsewhere that I have distanced myself from Guerlain, a test still tempts me now and then, especially when I find something in the souk.
I will try to block out everything around it and focus solely on the scent on my skin. And lo and behold - it actually works. The top note, where the mandarin and the rather green-citrusy yuzu clearly dominate, has a true Aqua Allegoria character: expressive, cool, and energetic. I can't detect a break to the heart note, but it is true that the fragrance drifts into a familiar neroli aroma, which some members of the perfume community apparently take issue with. I can't understand that, because I like it. Amber gives warmth to the neroli and simultaneously leads into a base that I find pleasant. It may be synthetic - why not. But this somewhat austere finish, which is surprisingly long-lasting on my skin, pleases me immensely. Oud is, at least for me, well wrapped between cedar and vetiver and only acts in the background - so to speak as a scent enhancer, certainly not as the theme it is marketed as in the name of the perfume. So, good news for those who avoid Oud like the devil avoids holy water. I actually belong to that group too. I'm also not sure if Guerlain did the fragrance a favor by presenting Oud so prominently in the name. Mentioning the note in the pyramid would probably have sufficed and would not have polarized so much.
Since the season is not aimed at acquiring a new Aqua Allegoria fragrance for the fragrance cabinet, I will probably settle for a decant for now, and who knows, spring will surely come again. Because even though I don't perceive the fragrance as lightweight, I do prefer other calibers for autumn and winter.
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14 Comments
Once again, a pleasure to read… ;)
I’m hardly ever bothered by neroli, as this blossom always elevates sunny, light-filled scents.
I suspect the packaging is similar to Oud; Dunhill Icon has a similar design.
Unfortunately, the AAs have long since lost their appeal for me, as we share a painful experience there.
Really enjoyed reading this!
It's nice to read something from you again; that's the most important thing. And as always, moderate, well-founded, and precise. You can rely on that.
I have to admit that the recent Aqua Allegoria releases have mostly failed in my tests. However, I find the pyramid of Oud Yuzu very intriguing. And the way Oud can harmonize well with Vetiver and Cedar is demonstrated by the Oud Vetiver Royale from Perry Ellis.
Your comment has definitely made me very curious!