6
A MESS IN A PRETTY DRESS
I don't know what to think of it. To be honest, it's a mess. This fragrance is all over the place! It starts off with a soapy, almost harsh opening, followed by a sharp citrus knockout. Five hours in, it shifts dramatically into an ambery leather base with some nutty, powdery notes — probably iris. Yet, I swear I can detect heliotrope in there, too.
The jasmine in this fragrance smells overwhelmingly soapy and plain. It’s not indolic or carnal in any way.
I've noticed three distinct phases in this fragrance, each smelling like a completely different perfume. The opening jasmine phase is soapy, harsh, and unbalanced. The heart “cologne” phase is a sharp leathery bergamot with a dash of powder. Finally, the deep drydown settles into a soft, citrusy vanilla. Overall, it feels disjointed and inconsistent. A mess in a pretty dress.
The projection is OK, lasting for about an hour before fading into a long-lasting skin scent.
Compliments: a friend mentioned that I smelled like an old-fashioned cologne splash from a classic barbershop — nostalgic and reminiscent of a bygone era. They meant it in a positive way.
I was a huge fan of the first two limited editions, Millésime Vanilla and Millésime Tonka, both created by Thierry Wasser (and Jelk, but they smell like typical Wasser creations). They were beautifully balanced and straightforward in their compositions. Delphine Jelk created Iris and Jasmin limited editions. I didn’t like Millésime Iris. To me, it was just a watery vanilla with a powdery opening that felt thin and lackluster. I’m not a fan of Delphine Jelk’s interpretations of Shalimar, including Millésime Jasmin.
There’s a rumor that each Millésime release will represent one of the classic ingredients found in the Guerlinade, the signature accord of the Guerlain fragrance house. The Guerlinade’s core components include:
- Vanilla
- Bergamot
- Tonka bean
- Iris
- Rose
- Jasmine
I’m looking forward to Millésime Rose. However, I’m not as excited about the idea of Millésime Bergamot, especially since Millésime Jasmin already featured an overwhelming dose of bitter bergamot, which I didn’t enjoy.
The jasmine in this fragrance smells overwhelmingly soapy and plain. It’s not indolic or carnal in any way.
I've noticed three distinct phases in this fragrance, each smelling like a completely different perfume. The opening jasmine phase is soapy, harsh, and unbalanced. The heart “cologne” phase is a sharp leathery bergamot with a dash of powder. Finally, the deep drydown settles into a soft, citrusy vanilla. Overall, it feels disjointed and inconsistent. A mess in a pretty dress.
The projection is OK, lasting for about an hour before fading into a long-lasting skin scent.
Compliments: a friend mentioned that I smelled like an old-fashioned cologne splash from a classic barbershop — nostalgic and reminiscent of a bygone era. They meant it in a positive way.
I was a huge fan of the first two limited editions, Millésime Vanilla and Millésime Tonka, both created by Thierry Wasser (and Jelk, but they smell like typical Wasser creations). They were beautifully balanced and straightforward in their compositions. Delphine Jelk created Iris and Jasmin limited editions. I didn’t like Millésime Iris. To me, it was just a watery vanilla with a powdery opening that felt thin and lackluster. I’m not a fan of Delphine Jelk’s interpretations of Shalimar, including Millésime Jasmin.
There’s a rumor that each Millésime release will represent one of the classic ingredients found in the Guerlinade, the signature accord of the Guerlain fragrance house. The Guerlinade’s core components include:
- Vanilla
- Bergamot
- Tonka bean
- Iris
- Rose
- Jasmine
I’m looking forward to Millésime Rose. However, I’m not as excited about the idea of Millésime Bergamot, especially since Millésime Jasmin already featured an overwhelming dose of bitter bergamot, which I didn’t enjoy.
2 Comments
Salahharake 1 year ago
1
Your review brings up some really interesting points about the complexity and inconsistency of this fragrance! It’s fascinating how you broke down the different phases. Thank you so much for this review!
DRKSHDW 1 year ago
I'm glad you liked the review!! I thought the fragrance was a bit "discombobulated"... but maybe it's just "complex"!! If I look at it this way, technically, it's not so bad. Thanks!