Cuir Pleine Fleur Heeley 2006

A wonderful example of modern creativity that does not wave its flag in the wind but rather feels committed to the principles of classic perfumery. Elegance and precision meet an aura of immortality; although conceived only a few years ago, I can easily imagine this fragrance in the golden 1920s.

As befits a true Heeley, the ingredients used are of natural origin and selected quality. Here, all showiness has been avoided, designed for the gentleman or lady. The result is a refined yet characterful scent, where the namesake component is indeed present but not necessarily dominant. Rather, the leather is to be understood as a contribution to a total work of art, harmoniously embedded and of exquisite finesse. I would even go so far as to deny the animalistic properties of the cuir in this composition and associate it with slightly vegetal, green nuances.

However this artistic feat was achieved, it certainly harmonizes excellently with the accompanying spices. I perceive cinnamon and clove most distinctly, finely dosed, pleasantly dry, and yet comfortably caressing. In the initial phase of the fragrance, Cuir Pleine Fleur is also surrounded by a subtly smoky note, daringly so, but never overstepping the mark.

Of course, floral notes suit a classic fragrance well, and James Heeley has chosen violet for this purpose. What a fortunate choice! While the foliage of the delicate plant is still noticeable at the beginning, the greenish mood gradually gives way to a fragrant floral arrangement, pleasantly subtle in its emphasis and never reaching the intensity of, for example, a Dior/Fahrenheit.

Overall, Cuir Pleine Fleur presents itself gracefully yet substantively, a thoroughly skillfully composed overall concept that exudes a charmingly distinguished aura without seeming monotonous or pretentious. A fragrance for the beautiful moments of life and, in our regions, wearable throughout the year except for the brief midsummer phase.