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Cuir Pleine Fleur Heeley 2006

7.4 / 10 190 Ratings

A perfume by Heeley for women and men, released in 2006. The scent is leathery-spicy. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Leathery

Spicy

Floral

Woody

Green

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Violet leaf

Cinnamon

Italian bergamot

Heart Notes

Suede

Honey

Mimosa

Rose

Base Notes

Birch

Atlas cedar

Castoreum

Vetiver

Perfumer

James Heeley

Ratings

Scent

7.4190 Ratings

Longevity

7.4148 Ratings

Sillage

6.3136 Ratings

Bottle

7.4130 Ratings

Value for money

6.724 Ratings

Submitted by Andi136, last update on 08/07/2025.

Interesting Facts

"Cuir Plein Fleur" is a term used in leather manufacturing. It denominates the more valuable upper layer of split leather - the grain layer in opposite to the flesh layer. On the grain layer, you can see the structure of the layer with marks and pores.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Knize Ten Toilet Water

Hommage à l'Homme Eau de Toilette

Fahrenheit Eau de Toilette

Héritage Eau de Parfum

Or Black (2014)

Ferrari Uomo Eau de Toilette

Reviews

20 in-depth fragrance descriptions

06/03/2013

5Scent

Awesomeness
247 Reviews

Awesomeness

Helpful Review 3

Full grain leather and then some ...

Cuir Pleine Fleur, or Full Grain Leather, opens nicely, and a soft leather is evident on top. Then it changes, quite dramatically, into something fetid.

My first thought: Bird cage, needs cleaning.
My second: City zoo, elephant pen.
My third: State fair, pig barn.
My fourth: Open, untreated animal wound.

The birch is beautiful - the best I've yet experienced - and the earthy, woody dry down is very wearable for me. But the farm experience ... it borders on repulsive and it's a little much.

Thank you @CatBiscuit for endowing me with a sample of this beauty. I'll use it on one fine day to piss off my co-workers, or I'll wear it in Vegas to make my way through a crowd. Either way, it'll go to good use. ;)

Aug
09
2010

04/14/2016

9Scent 6Longevity 5Sillage

Cumulnimbus
119 Reviews

Cumulnimbus

Helpful Review 3

A contemporary take on a polite leather tradition

Very contemporary unisex take on the polite side of niche leathers. It is quite different from all others so that's already a plus. I enjoy violet or violet leaf and leather combo tradition, being Jolie Madame one of my favorite leather scents. Cuir Pleine Fleur adds bergamot and cinnamon for a sparkly start, transparent honeyed mimosa to brighten up and finally a shade of hawthorn and castoreum to give the drydown a polite animalic wink over the birch, wet vetiver and woody notes. Nevertheless, the wet green effect stands out and manages to generate a prevalently clean perception.

I value the calming effect it has on me. It melts beautifully with my own skin smell, so I find it extremely wearable. Chic, perfect for warm spring and autumn days. Longevity is pretty satisfactory but offers a moderate sillage.

07/15/2025

9Scent

DrB1414
264 Reviews

DrB1414

Helpful Review 3

Ellena or Heeley? Agrestic or Leather?

Cuir Pleine Fleur by James Heeley - gone but not forgotten. I was very impressed with this one, for a couple of reasons. First, for a leather fiend like myself to stumble upon a unique and unconventional leather scent (mind you, this one came out in 2006) is very rare. Second, I was not expecting to smell a Jean-Claude Ellena in a Heeley bottle.

Now, don't be fooled by the note breakdown with this one. People see violet leaf paired with leather, and shout "Fahrenheit," in the same way they see fruity-chypres featuring peach and shout "Mitsouko," and so on. This perfume smells like nothing I have tried. It takes bits from here and there, but as a whole, it is unique. The only thing that rings familiar to me is the aesthetic, its execution. In that regard, it strongly reminds me of Hermessence Cuir D'Ange, and overall, of Ellena's style. If someone told me this was created by Jean-Claude, I would believe it. And then, some critics claimed James Heeley to be the next Jean Claude Ellena, so there's that. I admit, I'm not familiar with the house, so I can't offer an opinion on that, but there's a strong resemblance to Ellena's style in this perfume.

As for the composition itself, this is steering more into Agrestic territory than Leather, although there is a clear presence of the latter. The leather accord behaves much as the one in Cuir D'Ange, while the rest of the perfume smells entirely rustic. It brings to mind perfumes such as Greco's Œillères, Providence Perfumes Moss Gown, and small bits of Prin's Haxan. I'd say more readily the first two. If you'd strip Œillères of its sweaty leather accord, or add a gentle leather touch to Moss Gown, you'd get a good impression of Cuir Pleine Fleur. However, there's a bit more to it, besides that - a very subtle honey note and a quite assertive cinnamon touch that sticks around for quite some time.
From the listed notes and accords, I get the violet leaf, cinnamon, hawthorne, leather, honey, and vetiver. Violet leaf and cinnamon open the way, a burst of ozonic green accompanied by the fiery-spicy kick from the cinnamon. Then, the bucolic landscape begins to shape the fragrance on a suede leather canvas. The hawthorne is prominent with its bitter-green and powdery touches, reminiscent of how it complements the leather accord in Cuir D'Ange. But then I get several "phantom accords" that, albeit not listed, are very tangible to me: hay and chamomile. It might be the way the ingredients and molecules interact, but what I smell is without a doubt a dry, grassy, and herbal heart where hay, chamomile, hawthorne, and the lingering violet leaf pave the way for the leather. The latter is a soft, suede-like take on the accord. It bears the minimum amount of smokiness and animalic twang. In the base, it goes into a creamy musk direction with hints of dry and aromatic vetiver. This is a subtle take on leather that works great during Spring and Summer, but can be worn all year round.

If Ruade is the rugged leather saddle you ride on and Œillères is the rustic waistcoat imbued with the sweat of a day's work in the fields, then Cuir Pleine Fleur is the elegant pair of leather gloves you match to your tweed suit while taking a road trip to the countryside for a breath of fresh air. It is Cuir D'Ange's rustic cousin.

IG:@memory.of.scents

05/03/2014

5Scent 4Longevity 4Sillage

WRoth
154 Reviews

WRoth

1

Cuir Pleine Fleur

This fragrance opens with a chocolaty leather accord — dry and intense. It gives me the impression of a cowhide desiccated by the desert sun and winds. As the scent progresses, the chocolate undertone dissolves into a clove note with smoky accents. On me the spice dominates the whole composition and I see little of the initially-strong leather accord. It resurfaces more clearly only towards the dry down — after the spices have burnt off. Overall this is a very light scent with little lasting power: after roughly four hours it is gone.

12/05/2013

10Scent 10Longevity 10Sillage

Tessa
83 Reviews

Tessa

1

The sweeatest Cuir

Most of the leathers are sharp and when I ordered a sample of Cuir Pleine Fleur I was expecting a scent similar to Azuree that I love so much.
Helley'creation is the antipodal point: warm, soft like a perfumed pair of suede gloves, harmonious and full bodied like no other leather.
I adore it ! It has some iris in the mix who gives the sweernes to this scent. I never tried to detemine the individual elements of this fragrance. I let its dissipation float around and color my day in soft yellows and blues. Cuir Pleine Fleur has great longevity and sillage.

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