Parfum d'Hermès Hermès 1984 Eau de Toilette

It was 1984 when this glorious fragrance was launched at the Hermes house, whose texture and fabric are typical of the brand.
The great perfumer Raymond Chaillan composed this monument of olfactory art together with the mythical Akiko Kamei. The idea was to produce a perfume of the highest quality that could represent the house worldwide and detach itself from the genre of Hermes.
And thus, from a heap of countless attempts, this magnificent chypre emerged, where the floral heart revolves around the absolute of rose.
The opening is lemon-yellow (bergamot) dense and aldehydic, almost metallic, a freshness typical for feminine chypres, where the aldehydes burst onto the scene in an explosive manner. After this very fresh and metallic phase, the green aspect of the perfume comes to the fore, with galbanum and hyacinth creating a strongly harsh, stiff, and floral scent. Followed by the beautiful iris, which immerses a red and bloody rose, the master of the entire composition.
The rose is accompanied by an indolic jasmine and ylang-ylang, forming a dusty flower.
The rose is also well constructed with warm and smoky myrrh, which makes the flower warm, bloody, and seductive; the sandalwood together with cedarwood forms a woody background that is already noticeable after the first hour. The result is a magnificent floral chypre, where the rose is the undisputed protagonist of the entire composition.
A rose with many faces: sometimes it is cold (rose and aldehydes), while at other times it is strongly sharp (rose and hyacinth), but the base is certainly an oriental rose with plenty of myrrh resin and sandalwood.
This composition is similar in the early developmental stages to Guerlain's Chamade (which does not become warm and velvety like Parfum d'Hermes), thus creating a very strong association with the mythical Guerlain chypre. This similarity is very pronounced, as they share many common notes: bergamot, hyacinth, rose, jasmine, galbanum, and sandalwood.
The combination of rose and sandalwood bears similarities in many places to another great Guerlain: Samsara. It is a sweet and velvety powderiness, a warm appearance conveyed by the large amounts of sandalwood expressed in both perfumes.
The result is a perfume with luxurious radiance, a powdery warmth that warms and enchants, the idea of velvety vermilion that becomes warm and seductive skin.
This fragrance expresses everything that can be represented by elegance and sophistication through scent. For that is luxury in one word: Parfum d'Hermes.
(The review concerns the 1984 EDT version.
Sorry for the many mistakes, but German is not my language. However, I hope my message has come through!)