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Serenissima
Helpful Review
11
Fragrance workshop instead of saddlery
The number of great fragrance creations from the seventies and eighties, the "heyday" of golden fragrances, seems endless.
Again and again, treasures appear from cupboards and chests that are just as fascinating today as they were forty or fifty years ago.
Oh, what a time it was and many of us were right in the middle of it!
It wasn't just the traditional houses like Guerlain and Caron (I'm sure there were more, but I can't think of them at the moment) that delighted us with their creations; well-known couturiers also suddenly entered the fragrance market.
Christian Dior and Coco Chanel were ahead of their time and had already conquered their positions, which they have retained to this day.
But it was the "young savages", Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld (still working for the house of "Chloé", later for "Fendi"), Christian Lacroix, Gianfranco Ferré and all the others who released their first fragrance creations under their own names.
Many of them are still popular and successful today, others were real "one hit wonders".
But they were and are all beautiful: they all bring golden moments full of aromatic richness into our lives.
With its fragrances, the "Hermès" brand stands somewhat between the times:
"Eau de Hermès" was launched in 1951, the women's classic "Caléche" in 1961, followed by "Equipage", the men's fragrance, in 1970.
The names of these two still recall the original saddlery, which first conquered the fashion world with fashionable leather goods beyond equestrianism and later with its fragrances.
Incidentally, the former saddlery and "equestrian supplies" are still commemorated by the giant tin soldier on horseback waving two silk banners on the roof of the corner building at 24, Rue de Faubourg in Paris, the company's headquarters.
He appears to be guarding the beautiful roof garden behind him; its planting is reminiscent of the company's large silk cloths.
We meet the apple tree there again in "Un Jardin sur le Trois"; here, Jean-Claude Ellena has created a fragrant monument to this garden on the roof.
in 1984, "Parfum d'Hèrmes" took to the stage, equipped with everything a
Fragrance diva is worthy of.
The golden brown of the liquid already hints at the multitude of resins and spices, much more than the later flagship "24, Faubourg" contains.
Beautiful floral aromas were embedded in this, after bergamot and sparkling aldehydes provided a luminous opening.
Dreamlike blossoms that give a floral chypre its unmistakable personality: precious roses, cascades of white jasmine and, of course, the proud iris are not to be missed.
The hyacinth, which is occasionally offputting due to its special aroma, lends this composition a spicy charm right at the beginning, while ylang-ylang provides charming lightness here too.
The base is also contemporary. A base through which veils of smoke of varying densities of precious resins float, where creamy yet animal-erotic sandalwood enters into an alliance with warm, sensual vanilla and silky, spicy cedarwood.
An excellently composed "menage à trois" amidst a dance of golden-brown resins.
All of this is interwoven into an extremely opulent creation, a decorative garment of aromatic fragrance notes.
At the time, "Eau d'Hermès" not only adorned divas, but was worn every day as a matter of course.
It was a colorful, glamorous time in which we roamed around in the company of these fragrance works of art.
"Eau d'Hermès" was foreign to me back then, as I have already mentioned, I was pretty much only on the road with Karl Lagerfeld "Chloé" and "KL", but absolutely here!
I only got to know many of these fascinating compositions through the "Parfumo" community and in recent months especially through Theresa and her treasures, most of which also live in such wonderful-looking flacons.
What a great discovery I was able to make in this world of fragrances and what beauty I have been surrounded by every day since then thanks to her dear gifts.
It is still worth looking back and still enjoying the present.
Gladly wrapped in "Eau d'Hermès".