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Notes07/22/2020
Konsalik
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Konsalik
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21
Reflects broad-legged
Attempts to find classic scent signatures in connection with oud have so far failed for me: Synthetic oud and traditional compositions either didn't go well together (Colonia Oud) or the character of classical houses was distorted and the result seemed strangely half-hearted (Floris' Leather Oud). If I didn't want to spend a small fortune on - admittedly great - real oudlers like those from Ormonde Jayne, for example, all that was left for me to do was to put the formula "Old European Perfume School + Oud" with the remark "not satisfactorily dissolved" aside and turn to a more promising game. Fortunately, I don't only like the ancient obscurities of Anno Kautabak, as seen from the mainstream, but also fragrances from the time of the so-called Powerhouse Era. Their representatives from the core time between about 1975 and 1990 like to turn everything up to 10 when it comes to spices, soap and animalics and behave to many classics of the previous decades like "Bat out of Hell" to "All you need is Love". In the style of the Ratiopharm twins, one would like to ask: Is there also something with Oud?
There shouldn't be, should there? After all, the hype about the fragrance only started a good ten years ago, long after the end of the period mentioned above. But a review by the esteemed user MonsieurTest drew my attention (once again!) to a fragrance from Jacques Bogart's One Man Show series. While the original One Man Show from the 70s has a reputation of being one of the most archetypal hits from the powerhouse line-up, MonsieurTest's review of the "Gold Edition" flanker also read as if the basic substance (brand: Elegant Steam Pile) had remained largely untouched. A house, then, that has been flanking a classic for forty(!) years without betraying its basic character? That deserves applause. And then there should even be an oud version of this one? For far under 20€?! There is not petty rumgesoukt, there is bought.
After a first test shower (the spray head of our glass cleaner doses more sparingly) I came to an intermediate conclusion within a few minutes, which did not change even after several test runs: This is exactly how you have to handle synthetic oud! Don't step quietly, don't turn it down, but join a gang of similarly polarizing, dominant colleagues who confidently take the "newcomer" under their wings.
The meanwhile almost standardized, prickly-woody and slightly medicinal scent impression of the commonly known synthie oud is framed after a somehow crumbly-fruity alcoholic opening (professionally matured Obstler) mainly by strong green, bitter-adstringent galbanum - which strangely enough reminds me of Grey Flannel of all things - and a no less strong leather soap note. The vintage spice bouquet (I suspect cinnamon and basil in addition to thyme) almost takes a back seat, but, like the comparatively sparingly dosed patchouli, gives the fragrance its actual "perfumery". Jacques Bogart was told by a co-parfumo that perfumes were not composed with a pipette but with a measuring cup. I have the same impression, but they did compose there. And that's good!
The Oud Edition of One Man Show is as broad-legged and long-lasting as the great powerhouses of yesteryear (Kouros, Santos etc.), but has been carefully adapted to the present day with noticeable love for the fragrance signature of that era. Whoever wears it reflects his or her preference for that time, without wanting to ironize it clumsily: OMS - Oud Edition is, to put it in a formula, "0% Hipster". If you want a musical comparison, we would like to refer you to one of the best Retrowave projects, which transfer the melancholic synthiepop of the 80s into the here and now with equally tenderly updated interventions: Look on Youtube for FM-84 with the song "Running in the Night" - my personal soundtrack for this fragrance.
There shouldn't be, should there? After all, the hype about the fragrance only started a good ten years ago, long after the end of the period mentioned above. But a review by the esteemed user MonsieurTest drew my attention (once again!) to a fragrance from Jacques Bogart's One Man Show series. While the original One Man Show from the 70s has a reputation of being one of the most archetypal hits from the powerhouse line-up, MonsieurTest's review of the "Gold Edition" flanker also read as if the basic substance (brand: Elegant Steam Pile) had remained largely untouched. A house, then, that has been flanking a classic for forty(!) years without betraying its basic character? That deserves applause. And then there should even be an oud version of this one? For far under 20€?! There is not petty rumgesoukt, there is bought.
After a first test shower (the spray head of our glass cleaner doses more sparingly) I came to an intermediate conclusion within a few minutes, which did not change even after several test runs: This is exactly how you have to handle synthetic oud! Don't step quietly, don't turn it down, but join a gang of similarly polarizing, dominant colleagues who confidently take the "newcomer" under their wings.
The meanwhile almost standardized, prickly-woody and slightly medicinal scent impression of the commonly known synthie oud is framed after a somehow crumbly-fruity alcoholic opening (professionally matured Obstler) mainly by strong green, bitter-adstringent galbanum - which strangely enough reminds me of Grey Flannel of all things - and a no less strong leather soap note. The vintage spice bouquet (I suspect cinnamon and basil in addition to thyme) almost takes a back seat, but, like the comparatively sparingly dosed patchouli, gives the fragrance its actual "perfumery". Jacques Bogart was told by a co-parfumo that perfumes were not composed with a pipette but with a measuring cup. I have the same impression, but they did compose there. And that's good!
The Oud Edition of One Man Show is as broad-legged and long-lasting as the great powerhouses of yesteryear (Kouros, Santos etc.), but has been carefully adapted to the present day with noticeable love for the fragrance signature of that era. Whoever wears it reflects his or her preference for that time, without wanting to ironize it clumsily: OMS - Oud Edition is, to put it in a formula, "0% Hipster". If you want a musical comparison, we would like to refer you to one of the best Retrowave projects, which transfer the melancholic synthiepop of the 80s into the here and now with equally tenderly updated interventions: Look on Youtube for FM-84 with the song "Running in the Night" - my personal soundtrack for this fragrance.
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