The brand L.T. Piver claims to have been active for about 250 years and produces affordable yet popular fragrances in its own factory. I have always been curious about Cuir de Russie, where I suspected a product reminiscent of Knize Ten, Bel Ami, and the like. Simply because it probably involves Russian leather, a leather scent evoked by birch. Since I was familiar with the Cuir from the same house and it did not appeal to me, I hoped that they had accomplished something different in the past.
The result is, to put it bluntly, a rather diluted scent. The typical smell of such perfumes as mentioned above is present; it smells venerable, spicy, and inherently good. However, the leather is extremely watered down, far too soapy. In principle, soapiness is not wrong; it often intensifies the leather scent. Here, it is too much or, to put it figuratively: the stale cleaning water now cleans the worn leather pants without any foam, using plenty of fabric patches.
The leather gradually transforms into a beeswax-leather. I have experienced this phenomenon often enough and I gladly repeat myself: I enjoy it when my leather shoes smell like this after polishing. I don’t need it. It is quite possible that beeswax or an equivalent has been used.
In terms of content, it seems that the same ingredients have been processed here as in other perfumes of this type and age, as the scent includes the spicy herbaceousness that is no longer found in newer products. I think of clary sage, of course oakmoss, garden carnation, to name just a few examples. Oakmoss is even perceptible, but not as a cooling element, rather as part of the warming, spicy concoction. Understandably, Cuir de Russie warms additionally in the cold Russian winter. The clary sage might be included because the scent is gently herbaceous, a bit ethereal, which would fit.
Overall, Cuir de Russie is successful and was surely a really good fragrance in 1939. In 2020, it can also be worn with a clear conscience, as the scent is not bad. Time has not stood still, and thus, this reminiscence of past decades cannot really be compared to other fragrances. However, if one - there are certainly enough occasions for this - does not place value on longer longevity and subtle sillage, then Cuir de Russie is worth considering.
Thanks to Cravache for the lovely experience of being able to test Cuir de Russie.
A "to-the-point description"! Especially with such unknown perfumes, it's very helpful when the scent is clearly described in straightforward words and placed in a relatable context. I'm thrilled!
On eBay, where 100 ml currently costs about 60 euros, the scent is described as: mandarin, honey, warming winter spices, and a hint of leather. I mention this because there’s no "pyramid" for this fragrance on Parfumo. It feels too "wintry" for me. I can imagine it as a scented candle. I personally don’t want to walk around like a gingerbread lady. No matter how cute the bottle with the dancing couple (with a p, not a b!) looks... :-)
Old leather with soap, clove, and moss sounds good. Beeswax, less so. And I sometimes struggle with clary sage too. So it really depends on a personal test.
L.T. Piver... Crazy. Do they also make colognes for uncles? Nice, interesting comment. I'm not really a leather specialist or fetishist, although I do like (and own) both Knize Ten and Bel Ami. But what surprises me is how extremely different all these "Russian Leather" scents smell. Will you also comment on "Cuir de Russie" by Chanel? For me, that's a completely different world compared to "Knize Ten & Co."
The scent doesn't really appeal to me right now, the herbal note is the most interesting part, even though it only costs a few bucks. But your comment is very helpful!
As far as I know you by now, your leather is probably a different kind ;-) This one would likely be more my style. And I often appreciate the subtle notes. Beautiful description!
As always, an insightful comment.
Go East ;-)
Pokälsche!
The vintage touch quickly piques my interest.
Thanks for sharing!
A trophy goes to the neighboring country.