Cuir de Russie L.T. Piver 1939 Eau de Toilette

With an bright, aldehydic, honeyed opening with suggestions of tobacco, one would be mistaken that this modern version of Cuir de Russie would be a lighthearted, even spineless affair. On the contrary, this delightfully wispy announcement is deceptive. A minute or two in, as the sharp citrusy, almost detergent-like aldehydes settle, the dry tobacco effect is eclipsed by something similar to that of birch leaves, as if stepping into a Norwegian sauna, twiggy, green and warm, with a hot cup of herbal tea on the side. The dry down is the real showstopper though: the honey warms up a bit, and a soft, smoky, musky leather comes to the surface, with hints of styrax and even facets of lit frankincense resin. This is what we call a winter warmer.

Now mind you, this is something that can be had quite affordably depending upon where you are in the world, but I am impressed that in spite of Piver's perceived "fall from grace" that a number of their scents still have their spirit and core intact, including their Cuir de Russie. Being that it has herbaceous, aromatic, and even incense elements to it, do not expect it to be comparable to others of its genre. The smokiness is subdued and tranquil, the leather is beautifully introverted, but overall, its thoroughly impressive and compelling. This is one of the best blind buys I've had.

The brand L.T. Piver claims to have been active for about 250 years and produces affordable yet popular fragrances in its own factory. I have always been curious about Cuir de Russie, where I suspected a product reminiscent of Knize Ten, Bel Ami, and the like. Simply because it probably involves Russian leather, a leather scent evoked by birch. Since I was familiar with the Cuir from the same house and it did not appeal to me, I hoped that they had accomplished something different in the past.

The result is, to put it bluntly, a rather diluted scent. The typical smell of such perfumes as mentioned above is present; it smells venerable, spicy, and inherently good. However, the leather is extremely watered down, far too soapy. In principle, soapiness is not wrong; it often intensifies the leather scent. Here, it is too much or, to put it figuratively: the stale cleaning water now cleans the worn leather pants without any foam, using plenty of fabric patches.
The leather gradually transforms into a beeswax-leather. I have experienced this phenomenon often enough and I gladly repeat myself: I enjoy it when my leather shoes smell like this after polishing. I don’t need it. It is quite possible that beeswax or an equivalent has been used.

In terms of content, it seems that the same ingredients have been processed here as in other perfumes of this type and age, as the scent includes the spicy herbaceousness that is no longer found in newer products. I think of clary sage, of course oakmoss, garden carnation, to name just a few examples. Oakmoss is even perceptible, but not as a cooling element, rather as part of the warming, spicy concoction. Understandably, Cuir de Russie warms additionally in the cold Russian winter. The clary sage might be included because the scent is gently herbaceous, a bit ethereal, which would fit.

Overall, Cuir de Russie is successful and was surely a really good fragrance in 1939. In 2020, it can also be worn with a clear conscience, as the scent is not bad. Time has not stood still, and thus, this reminiscence of past decades cannot really be compared to other fragrances. However, if one - there are certainly enough occasions for this - does not place value on longer longevity and subtle sillage, then Cuir de Russie is worth considering.

Thanks to Cravache for the lovely experience of being able to test Cuir de Russie.

Yes, Cuir de Russie - that is Russian Leather - one of those traditional scents that, just like the famous Cologne, has been offered by many brands. It is not a perfume that actually smells like a leather jacket or boots, as such genuine leather notes probably could not be produced when Russian Leather was invented. Rather, it is the note of "birch tar," and it is said that the Cossacks used to rub this on their leather boots - this legend is at least shared with us here and there.

Please forgive me for having tested this Cuir de Russie only on strips, not on my skin, as it was occupied elsewhere. Cuir de Russie is indeed Russian Leather - strong and one-dimensional; and I believe I haven't missed anything. It is worth mentioning that at L.T.Piver, the Cuir de Russie appears quite sweet and also somewhat fruity - I detected a distinct honey note here. This changes the basic character a bit. This Cuir de Russie seems to be a bit friendlier than others and, due to its sweetness, also somewhat more wearable for women.

Cuir de Russie is not identical to "Cuir" from the same brand. By the way, it is no longer found on the L.T.Piver website - the availability options are sparse, and I think it is being discontinued.

I found it on the bargain table at Schnitzler (Düsseldorf) in the Schadow Arcades. The bottle and packaging are very cleverly designed. They are adorned with a colorful, dancing, apparently Russian Cossack or peasant couple in Matryoshka colors. It is so cute that I almost bought it just for that reason. Because Schnitzler is asking only 20 € for this Cuir de Russie! The bargain table in the Schadow Arcades is always worth a visit, but this time I was able to resist. Cuir de Russie is such an old-fashioned, so out-of-date affair - I really don't need that. Nowadays, there are much better perfumes. A small amount of Russian Leather that I purchased at Harry Lehmann in Berlin is enough as a reference for me. But for those interested - hurry to Schnitzler!