Without the thought of rediscovering an old acquaintance from my youth, I find the scent to be very pleasant at first. Bright, a bit soapy, clean, elegant, this is how Sortilege presents itself to me today. Yes, I like that, I would love to wear it. This is a fragrance that can serve as a fine companion every day. The floral notes are harmonious and cool, almost reserved, and the base is smooth and fine until the very end. For years, I wished that a fragrance would appear in the mainstream that could appeal to fans of L`Air du Temps. Today's Sortilege would certainly fit that bill.
But - this scent has nothing in common with the old sensual-feminine and refined Sortilege from 1937. The current creators of the brand are reaching far out on a limb when they claim to have revived the original formulas. You can already tell this when comparing the pyramids, as today's Sortilege lacks not only the oak moss but also a hint of civet. Every perfumer knows that this has robbed the fragrance not only of depth and volume but also of refinement and sensuality.
Am I disappointed? Not really, as I didn't expect anything different. Many classic fragrances have already gone through this with us, and perhaps it is truly not possible to resurrect an old perfume according to today's guidelines. However, if the formula has only been adapted to the spirit of the times, then Sortilege has not been done any favors.
Since Sortilege is the only fragrance from Le Galion that I used to know well, I will now be able to evaluate the other perfumes from the house more impartially. I have now checked Sortilege off my list. The fragrance still receives 80% because I do like it, nostalgia aside.
You've described it masterfully. The white flowers smell just animalistically beautiful enough for me, and 'thank goodness' there's no oak moss included, but amber, and yet, there could be a hint of... well, what then, if there's no oak moss?
I have to agree with you, this creamy floral scent unfortunately doesn't smell like 1937. Especially the flagship of this brand should be something significant, as I feel I can sense the era of the other fragrances more clearly.
That's definitely very interesting when someone knows the original scent. Another one of those revivals that is only distantly related to the original. ;)