Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
07/03/2018
StellaDiverF
213 Reviews
StellaDiverF
Helpful Review
2
Extrait and XO versions (released in autumn 2017)
Extrait:
Legendary Fragrances' version of extrait opens with sweet-tart and almost boozy peach supported by the soft whisper of smooth orris. Besides this expected peach-orris accord, curiously, there is also a note recalling stale vegetation mixed within during the opening 10 minutes, adding an unexpectedly eldritch twist to the usually optimisitc and colourful peach-orris combination.
This "leaves left for too long in stagnant water" note recedes into the distance after about 30 minutes, when it gets replaced by a spicy, slightly metallic and almost meaty clove as peach and orris' new companion. With the clove combined to the gently powdery texture surrounding the iris and violet, a spicy yet sweet carnation blooms vividly in this bouquet during the next 2 hours.
As times passes, the fragrance loops back to its initial focus on the peach-orris, but becomes more dry and powdery in the texture than the previously smooth one. There are times from 4th to 6th hour when a nutty, flour-y woody note threatens to overcome the smooth sensation of orris, but evetually relents. The fragrance then remains this softly musky, peach skin-like scent until the end. The sillage is moderate to soft, while the longevity is usually around 10 hours.
I haven't smelt any vintage original Jacques Fath Iris Gris, nor the reconstructed version of Osmothèque, therefore cannot provide any comparison. Compared to other fragrances constructed around a peach-orris accord such as L'Iris de Fath and DSH Scent of Hope, the orris/iris part in Legendary Fragrances' extrait seems less plush and less velvety, instead it feels slightly more powdery and dry, maybe because of a stronger woody emphasis midway in its evolution on my skin. The mood of the fragrance is also more sombre, more cacophonous, and in a certain sense, more grey, probably thanks to the "rotten leaves" association I got in the opening, and a less luscious and less radiant peach in general. In contrast, the carnation note turns out much more noticeable here than in the other peach-orris fragrances that I tried.
I personally prefer a more optimistic and harmonious rendition of peach and orris, this extrait is therefore not a version that I seek after. But the spicy powdery twist of the carnation is quite intriguing. Considering that carnation is sometimes mentioned as playing a non-negligeable role in the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris and the Osmothèque reconstruction, it would be interesting to compare them on this front besides the peach-orris pair.
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XO:
From my understanding, this XO version is an aged one of the extrait achieved by a special process (described as patented but still pending at the time of writing on Legendary Fragrances website). The opening indeed recalls the vinegar-like note stemming from the damaged top notes of vintage perfumes, and it eventually fades away to reveal the expected peach-orris accord, smooth and softly musky like peach skin, sitting comfortably on the skin without significant changes until it completely disappears after about 10 hours.
Compared to the extrait version which aims at recreating the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris freshly prepared, the different notes in this XO version are much less distinct and feel almost like having melted within the soft peach-orris accord. The nutty and slightly powdery woody aspect is mostly absent, while the spicy carnation is only a distant whisper. In contrast, the violet is more noticeable in the XO version, although not as vivid as in DSH Scent of Hope for example. The sillage is also softer than the extrait version.
Between the two versions from Legendary Fragrances, both have their own top notes that are unfortunately not appealing to my taste. Although the dry down of XO version is smoother, thanks to its lack of the almost flour-like powdery woody base, I personally find the extrait version more interesting with its spicy carnation twist.
Legendary Fragrances' version of extrait opens with sweet-tart and almost boozy peach supported by the soft whisper of smooth orris. Besides this expected peach-orris accord, curiously, there is also a note recalling stale vegetation mixed within during the opening 10 minutes, adding an unexpectedly eldritch twist to the usually optimisitc and colourful peach-orris combination.
This "leaves left for too long in stagnant water" note recedes into the distance after about 30 minutes, when it gets replaced by a spicy, slightly metallic and almost meaty clove as peach and orris' new companion. With the clove combined to the gently powdery texture surrounding the iris and violet, a spicy yet sweet carnation blooms vividly in this bouquet during the next 2 hours.
As times passes, the fragrance loops back to its initial focus on the peach-orris, but becomes more dry and powdery in the texture than the previously smooth one. There are times from 4th to 6th hour when a nutty, flour-y woody note threatens to overcome the smooth sensation of orris, but evetually relents. The fragrance then remains this softly musky, peach skin-like scent until the end. The sillage is moderate to soft, while the longevity is usually around 10 hours.
I haven't smelt any vintage original Jacques Fath Iris Gris, nor the reconstructed version of Osmothèque, therefore cannot provide any comparison. Compared to other fragrances constructed around a peach-orris accord such as L'Iris de Fath and DSH Scent of Hope, the orris/iris part in Legendary Fragrances' extrait seems less plush and less velvety, instead it feels slightly more powdery and dry, maybe because of a stronger woody emphasis midway in its evolution on my skin. The mood of the fragrance is also more sombre, more cacophonous, and in a certain sense, more grey, probably thanks to the "rotten leaves" association I got in the opening, and a less luscious and less radiant peach in general. In contrast, the carnation note turns out much more noticeable here than in the other peach-orris fragrances that I tried.
I personally prefer a more optimistic and harmonious rendition of peach and orris, this extrait is therefore not a version that I seek after. But the spicy powdery twist of the carnation is quite intriguing. Considering that carnation is sometimes mentioned as playing a non-negligeable role in the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris and the Osmothèque reconstruction, it would be interesting to compare them on this front besides the peach-orris pair.
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XO:
From my understanding, this XO version is an aged one of the extrait achieved by a special process (described as patented but still pending at the time of writing on Legendary Fragrances website). The opening indeed recalls the vinegar-like note stemming from the damaged top notes of vintage perfumes, and it eventually fades away to reveal the expected peach-orris accord, smooth and softly musky like peach skin, sitting comfortably on the skin without significant changes until it completely disappears after about 10 hours.
Compared to the extrait version which aims at recreating the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris freshly prepared, the different notes in this XO version are much less distinct and feel almost like having melted within the soft peach-orris accord. The nutty and slightly powdery woody aspect is mostly absent, while the spicy carnation is only a distant whisper. In contrast, the violet is more noticeable in the XO version, although not as vivid as in DSH Scent of Hope for example. The sillage is also softer than the extrait version.
Between the two versions from Legendary Fragrances, both have their own top notes that are unfortunately not appealing to my taste. Although the dry down of XO version is smoother, thanks to its lack of the almost flour-like powdery woody base, I personally find the extrait version more interesting with its spicy carnation twist.
