Orage Louis Vuitton 2018

Because everyone needs a hobby, I sat down at the kitchen table today and started to recreate the beautiful Orage by Louis Vuitton. You know, what you do during lockdown. I must preface this by saying that I am an absolute novice when it comes to fragrance materials, let alone the art of perfumery. But inspired by Heinsson's blog, I wanted to at least give it a try and approach a fragrance I greatly appreciate in a "different" way, especially my favorite topic: the reduced significance of fragrance pyramids. (Teaser: Today, I got "hit in the bow" here).

To give away the result: Even a blind chicken finds a grain now and then.

After two hours, the fragrance was finished (14% concentration), relatively strictly oriented towards the fragrance pyramid provided here, and balanced between natural and synthetic materials, if one disregards Hedione as a "filler." "No budget limitations," as a certain YouTuber would say (the result, however, cost under 2 euros per 10 ml). Real ambrette (albeit supplemented with - significantly - more synthetic musk), iris (though X germanica, a bit cheaper), vetiver, but also Clearwood (similar to patchouli). Bergamot, of course. And a bit of filler material and accentuation.

As I said, I am a layman and cannot actually recreate Orage (it would be very nice due to the price) - however, the result surprises me, as it at least clearly heads in that direction and manages with 12 ingredients. The indirect "proof" that the fragrance pyramid provided here is not just pure marketing from LV, but represents essential components truthfully, regardless of whether it is synthetically recreated or natural. The rest is then a bit of reading up on sensible concentrations and proportions, as there is plenty of information online.

Insights from my recreation: Quite a lot of clean patchouli, little vetiver (which would otherwise be too dominant), a relatively high proportion of a musk accord for the fluffiness/dustiness of Orage, a lot of bergamot (as indicated here). Darkness from patchouli-like and vetiver elements, as well as a kind of mustiness that I actually like here. I hope that real ambrette was used, as it is a wonderful musky raw material.

Deviations from my variant: The real Orage is much drier, more durable, more voluminous, but also more linear, except for the bergamot top note. My "variant" is fresher, less deep, and a bit warmer. And of course, less harmonious :-).

So much for the scent and the components.

The longevity and sillage are, in comparison to other men's fragrances - in my opinion, pleasantly - average. After the first wear 1-2 years ago, I thought the dustiness/mustiness would deter me from this fragrance in the long run, but experience teaches wisdom. In the meantime, I appreciate Orage precisely for that. A dry, serious, masculine fragrance that seems to be made for 30+/40+ (of course, anyone can wear what they like). Green, initially fresh, then increasingly dry, but without any scratchiness, somewhat woody. I could imagine that the briefing to Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud went something like: "Mix us a Terre d'Hermès that is still distinctive. Vetiver, but not too much, as not everyone likes that. Patchouli, we may not be Chanel, but we would like to be. Not too metallic, rocky, or strict. No sweetness. Wearable in the office, on a private jet, in the chalet, and when picking up the little one from daycare. Can you manage that?"

Yes, Mr. Cavallier-Belletrud managed it. Very well, indeed. Worth a test.