Gengis Khan Marc de la Morandière 1991 Eau de Toilette
24
Top Review
"I am the punishment of God."
"And if you had not committed such terrible sins, God would not have sent me as punishment over you." (Genghis Khan)
Now, as the spray button is pressed to the max and a burst of sparkling magic fills the air, the olfactory journey begins in a distant land ruled by an omnipotent scent - "Genghis Khan".
25 years have passed since the introduction of this fragrance. When production was halted, it seemed lost and was nearly impossible to find even on international auction platforms. It is now the year 2014, and since last year, the workshops of the French perfumery "Marc de la Morandière" are once again in full swing. All the in-house classics from the 90s have been revived and are now (partially reformulated) exclusively available on the website of the Parisian fragrance house - including "Genghis Khan", an Eau de Parfum that truly deserves the honor of reintroduction.
With a loud war cry, the top note rides onto the battlefield with a variety of spices. Led by lavender and citrus accords, there is no hierarchy among them; no component of the top note smells exactly as one would expect, rather I perceive an extremely intoxicating combination of these. From the flanks, nuances of cherries and dark berries emerge, reminiscent of Gainsboro's "Exception" yet entirely different. A cool breeze mingles, creating a refreshingly spicy opening. Drakkar Noir? Yes, indeed - and definitely no. Zesty and distinctive, spicy and fresh, slightly sweet yet so bitter - A UNIQUE TOP NOTE!
With the heart note, rose and jasmine march in, in a perfected combination with patchouli as I know it from my beloved classics "Antaeus", "Photo", and "Tsar". A wonderfully heavy and potent fragrance accord lies on my skin - masculine and mystical, rich and present. The top note shows no sign of dissipating, fighting side by side with the heart, unwavering and to the last man. In all its fullness, the upper two-thirds of the fragrance pyramid are like a glass of fragrant red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, expressive and long-aged - A COMPLETE SINFUL-SENSUAL DELIGHT!
With the introduction of the base note, no prisoners are taken. Opulent pine needles as I know and love them from "Dhofar", paired with warm smoky benzoin accords reminiscent of "Body Kouros", swarm onto the battlefield and cover the blood-soaked ground with dark ash. An overwhelming intensity of perfectly harmonizing fragrance combinations that I have rarely encountered.
Despite all the opulence that "Genghis Khan" carries within, it is not a slaughterer but rather a strategist. It does not find its place among powerhouse fragrances; it kills quietly and with calculation. The sillage is strong, yet not overwhelming. The longevity is very good, appropriate for an "Eau de Parfum", and the overall appearance of the fragrance is absolutely unique.
The exotically occult bottle is made of black glass with dark red lettering, features a hard plastic cap, and was designed by Serge Mansau, who has previously worked for brands such as Hermes, Dior, and Guerlain. The "Eau de Parfum" is exclusively available in a 100ml bottle through the Marc de la Morandière website for 120 EUR plus international shipping costs. I also received five original samples of other fragrances from the house for free as a bonus and am extremely satisfied with the purchasing process. To what extent the fragrance has been reformulated, I cannot say, as I unfortunately never had the pleasure of experiencing the original release.
CONCLUSION: If you enjoy dark, potent fragrances like Chanel's "Antaeus" or Guy Laroche's "Drakkar Noir", you are in the right place; if you favor substantial classics with strong sillage, you must test this; and if you have mourned the lost treasure in the "black urn" over all these past years, then virtually make your way to France and decimate the limited edition - aux armes!
Now, as the spray button is pressed to the max and a burst of sparkling magic fills the air, the olfactory journey begins in a distant land ruled by an omnipotent scent - "Genghis Khan".
25 years have passed since the introduction of this fragrance. When production was halted, it seemed lost and was nearly impossible to find even on international auction platforms. It is now the year 2014, and since last year, the workshops of the French perfumery "Marc de la Morandière" are once again in full swing. All the in-house classics from the 90s have been revived and are now (partially reformulated) exclusively available on the website of the Parisian fragrance house - including "Genghis Khan", an Eau de Parfum that truly deserves the honor of reintroduction.
With a loud war cry, the top note rides onto the battlefield with a variety of spices. Led by lavender and citrus accords, there is no hierarchy among them; no component of the top note smells exactly as one would expect, rather I perceive an extremely intoxicating combination of these. From the flanks, nuances of cherries and dark berries emerge, reminiscent of Gainsboro's "Exception" yet entirely different. A cool breeze mingles, creating a refreshingly spicy opening. Drakkar Noir? Yes, indeed - and definitely no. Zesty and distinctive, spicy and fresh, slightly sweet yet so bitter - A UNIQUE TOP NOTE!
With the heart note, rose and jasmine march in, in a perfected combination with patchouli as I know it from my beloved classics "Antaeus", "Photo", and "Tsar". A wonderfully heavy and potent fragrance accord lies on my skin - masculine and mystical, rich and present. The top note shows no sign of dissipating, fighting side by side with the heart, unwavering and to the last man. In all its fullness, the upper two-thirds of the fragrance pyramid are like a glass of fragrant red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, expressive and long-aged - A COMPLETE SINFUL-SENSUAL DELIGHT!
With the introduction of the base note, no prisoners are taken. Opulent pine needles as I know and love them from "Dhofar", paired with warm smoky benzoin accords reminiscent of "Body Kouros", swarm onto the battlefield and cover the blood-soaked ground with dark ash. An overwhelming intensity of perfectly harmonizing fragrance combinations that I have rarely encountered.
Despite all the opulence that "Genghis Khan" carries within, it is not a slaughterer but rather a strategist. It does not find its place among powerhouse fragrances; it kills quietly and with calculation. The sillage is strong, yet not overwhelming. The longevity is very good, appropriate for an "Eau de Parfum", and the overall appearance of the fragrance is absolutely unique.
The exotically occult bottle is made of black glass with dark red lettering, features a hard plastic cap, and was designed by Serge Mansau, who has previously worked for brands such as Hermes, Dior, and Guerlain. The "Eau de Parfum" is exclusively available in a 100ml bottle through the Marc de la Morandière website for 120 EUR plus international shipping costs. I also received five original samples of other fragrances from the house for free as a bonus and am extremely satisfied with the purchasing process. To what extent the fragrance has been reformulated, I cannot say, as I unfortunately never had the pleasure of experiencing the original release.
CONCLUSION: If you enjoy dark, potent fragrances like Chanel's "Antaeus" or Guy Laroche's "Drakkar Noir", you are in the right place; if you favor substantial classics with strong sillage, you must test this; and if you have mourned the lost treasure in the "black urn" over all these past years, then virtually make your way to France and decimate the limited edition - aux armes!
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15 Comments
It seems like Yasemine has really captured your heart at the moment ;-)