Luna Absoluta Natura 2020

This one had everything to please me, but it wasn't quite like that. Because it's chypre floral, with oriental-gourmand tones, I thought: - it'll be a winner, but was it?

Comparisons say it copies Trésor la nuit, La vie, Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming ( where did the "Absoluta" come from? lol), 212 VIP, and so on. But in my experience, it may even remind me a little of each of them, but the fact that it has notes in common is not enough to make it a "dupe", as people have been saying. Does that mean it's a bad perfume? Absolutely not.

It opens very spicy, even slightly salty, and the raspberry and pomegranate notes are syrupy-sweet, but not overpowering. It brings a juicy pear with juicy peachy-apricot contours. But this more watery tone doesn't last long, because the perfume soon becomes woody and very floral-talky.

I don't feel the floral ajasmine at the beginning, but the powdery flowers, violets, roses, and the "black orchid accord", which sounds very different from all the orchids I've ever smelled in perfumery. Nothing as dense as I see in the Black orchid line, but also not as dewy and aquatic as in Rare flowers.

Because it has a pomegranate note, for a moment I thought it would be reminiscent of Euphoria's orchid, but here it's much more sweet and powdery, without the more obvious acidic tone of CK. I'd say the florality is reminiscent of Luna Valentia, with that orchid tone, more purple than black.
The sweet ajasmine side does bring an air that might remind you of 212 VIP and similars, but the contours are completely different. The sweet jasmine-candy side may be the cause of this impression of similarity.

So far, so good. It's precisely in the evolution, after 30 minutes, that it starts to irritate me and flake off on my skin. It starts to feel unpleasantly woody and dry. The floral notes are still evident, emphasizing the orchid and powdery rose side.

I've noticed people saying that it's reminiscent of vintage fragrances, and it really does bring to mind some older roses, but without losing its contemporary, semi-gourmand side. The perfume that came to mind was completely different from the comparisons I heard: It was Cecita, by O Boticário. But what? Exactly: apricot, osmanthus, rose, pepper, jasmine, white woody notes, a strong base. Of course they're not the same, but this is the scent I remember from my evolution, and it definitely doesn't suit my skin.

The base of cedar, patchouli, and cashmere goes a long way. I don't feel any cocoa, which made me sad because I love this note in perfumery. Absolutely no chocolate on me. If it remained the scent of the top note, it would be very dear to me. I've noticed that some people have had a similar experience, so I feel less alone in this disappointment.

Nevertheless, it performs excellently. It lingers well (10+ hours) and exhales far into the first 50 minutes. It's definitely better at night and on cooler days. For those who got on well with it, it's a real treat.