Labradorite #13 Olivier Durbano 2017

The perfume line by Olivier Durbano from Grasse is a true insider tip and really worth testing! Why? You will find out in the following lines…

During my vacation in the perfume metropolis in August 2018, I had the luck to meet Olivier and get to know some of his creations. It was an interesting visit, and I quickly realized that there is more behind these scents than just good craftsmanship: namely pure passion!

Far away from marketing and the big "shopping hells" that most perfume lovers have to go to for inspiration, Olivier's atelier is located in a small alley that leads to the "Place aux Aires," one of the main squares in Grasse. The shop itself looks relatively unremarkable from the outside, but I was drawn in by the pleasant smell of incense wafting gently onto the street and, of course, couldn't resist taking a peek inside. Thanks, little nose, you can always be counted on!

After a brief conversation and some furtive glances at the now 13-scent collection, we got down to business. I mentioned the notes I like, and initially, a few fragrances were sprayed on test strips. Labradorite and Chrysolithe immediately captivated me. The idea behind the perfumes is to capture the properties and scents of the respective stones they represent and to convey them olfactorily. Accordingly, each of his works has a story, often closely linked to mythology. For each of his fragrances, the master takes a year, and you can smell it.

Since 2005, as mentioned above, 13 creations have emerged in this way, all of which are unique and very interesting in their own right. Labradorite starts with Palo Santo, marjoram, and cardamom, which for me represents a very distinctive top note that I have not encountered in this form anywhere else. Even the oily consistency on the skin indicates that this is a very high-quality product, mostly made from natural essences. For the animalistic components, of course, synthetics are used, as a high value is placed on ethics and sustainability.

The top note dissipates after about 15 minutes, and I can clearly perceive tuberose, incense, and civet. An amazing combination, I think. It reminds me, albeit distantly, of "Kouros" by YSL, but this is top quality and without compromises on the raw materials. What you see is what you get, and there’s no mushy concoction from the lab.

After a few hours, I smell primarily civet, castoreum, and oud in the base, all very animalistic and expressive. It is definitely not a wallflower, and the wearer should have some cojones, otherwise, in my opinion, they won't come across as authentic. Although I'm only in my mid-twenties, the scent somehow reminds me of past times and fragrances that were worn in the 90s and are no longer available… probably due to the down-to-earth mix of animal notes, incense, and woods.

The longevity on my skin is definitely above average, and the sillage is impressive! Care should be taken with the dosage, as you might be eagerly approached by complete strangers (grin).

Anyone who enjoys animalistic-woody scents should definitely test this one! The quality speaks for itself; no compromises were made, and you can feel it….